Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Number of blades on a turbine - cause/effect

Unsure if this has been covered in great detail at all on SAU.

With regards to turbo compressor/turbine blade design. What is the effect of having say 9 blades vs 11 blades on the turbine side if all else is equal (housing and wheel trims etc). Same said for the compressor.

E.G - standard R34 GTR turbos have like 5 blades vs -9's etc that have 6 on the comp side

From the 5 mins of searching i've done... 

The more blades the better it helps with low down rotational force, but can constrict top end. The more blades the more efficient at higher boost thresholds. I notice that a lot of billet wheel compressor blades are 11 single blade design

Does this sound anywhere near half correct?

 

 Less blades = more sutututu?

 

I can't tell you what the reasoning is behind more or less blades. But there are so many factors that the manufacturer would take into account.

Blade pitch, blade size, compressor size, ball bearing, etc etc

 

Keen to hear what other people think.

22 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

What is the effect of having say 9 blades vs 11 blades on the turbine side if all else is equal (housing and wheel trims etc).

The more blades the better it helps with low down rotational force, but can constrict top end. The more blades the more efficient at higher boost thresholds.

Does this sound anywhere near half correct?

 

It's much the same as for any pump, or even boat propellors.

Without changing ANYTHING other than the number of blades, it will pump more air earlier (compressor), or apply more drive to the driven shaft (turbine).  And then become less efficient at higher pressure ratios and mass flow levels.  More blade surface area to do the work helps shift air at lower rotating speeds, and the same factor eventually becomes a restriction.

The use of extended tip blades, light weight impellers, half-height blades etc are engineering solutions to either flow/response requirements from a given size package, or noise reduction.

 

It is still possible to option some turbos with different blade counts, with a realistic expectation it will perform differently. By how much is the unknown factor.  Kinugawa is one that I know of.

As a real example.

Say we compare the HKS GT-SS and HKS 2510 turbos. They are in essence, the same item. The 2510 is just the predecessor of the SS

GT-SS uses 6 blades for comp, and 9 for turbine

2510 uses 6 blades for comp, and 11 for turbine.

Both use ball bearings, both use inconnel for the blades but there are slight differences in wheel trim and housing design.

2510 is rated at 600PS, whereas the GT-SS is rated at 560PS.

So apart from the number of blades, the difference in power, flow and boost thresholds are more now to do with blade design, material and housing trims?

 

Edited by djvoodoo

I haven't examined either of those units in any detail.  Not so sure that the flow (rated power) figures are for a single unit there though...

But it's an example that isn't in keeping with the original question.

eg. different housing, different trim size.  And without a detailed inspection, it's quite possible that the blade form (shape) is different.

 

The case I cited was for a TDO6H-25G.  Turbine rotor was available in either 11 blade or 12 blade when I purchased.  There was also a 9 blade with the same critical dimensions but completely different design. Compressor impeller options had 3 choices, but they were all different designs (and prices).  Two different compressor housings, and up to 5 different turbine housings were available. 

It would be very easy to get into a muddle with so many choices, which is probably why the engineers do the development work and the marketers generally offer only basic spec variations eg. turbine housing A/R. 

  • Like 1

Convert to a single turbo, twin gates, twin scroll.

Will be better than any set of twins, with 6+6 or 11 blades on the compressor side.

Twins on a GT-R is a fail. Even BMW went to a TS turbo on their N55 motor.

  • Like 2

Gt2510's are a completely different wheel diameter that gtss from memory?

 

Anyway, this is the sort of question that you do a PHD to answer. so many variables, as a pure thought experiment sure, more blades means more flow, but as blades aren't infinitesimally small that comes into it

2 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

Gt2510's are a completely different wheel diameter that gtss from memory?

 

Anyway, this is the sort of question that you do a PHD to answer. so many variables, as a pure thought experiment sure, more blades means more flow, but as blades aren't infinitesimally small that comes into it

Yep, we have had a good chat about this offline :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...