Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm using those but as part of an upgrade kit. I also have 2 piece DBAs on the race car and 2 piece Ksport on the Stagea

Generally 2 piece rotors:

lighter due to alloy hat instead of all cast iron

dissipate heat better

cheaper to replace just the ring rather than whole thing

 

I haven't got them on the same car or tested back to back. But I am very happy with them. I would probably give them a go for a hard driven street car if they had a direct fit replacement like the link you had.

ATTKD are a Just Jap only brand AFAIK. But the Ksport, G4, D2 etc etc all seem to be the same or similar.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Im looking to replace my Sumitumos with Brembos because Im due for new everything front and rear.  I have a set of R33 GTR rear brembos.  Im curious if anyone knows FOR SURE if 350z Brembos with 350z rotors fit on the front of a R32 GTR.    I have heard the calipers and rotors off a 350z work together, just need to drill the holes to a fit the larger bolts, can anyone confirm this?

 

Thanks!

13 hours ago, BoostedSedan said:

Im looking to replace my Sumitumos with Brembos because Im due for new everything front and rear.  I have a set of R33 GTR rear brembos.  Im curious if anyone knows FOR SURE if 350z Brembos with 350z rotors fit on the front of a R32 GTR.    I have heard the calipers and rotors off a 350z work together, just need to drill the holes to a fit the larger bolts, can anyone confirm this?

 

Thanks!

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/

 

You're welcome :)

Google search 1st page.

 

  • Like 3
On 8/16/2017 at 6:31 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

lol, thanks man.. i even googled the hell out of it.

US edition of anything isn't a good thing lol.

Just remember you'll need the bolts from a R34 GT-t when you install them. The caliper bolts from a 350Z is too long. I think for you Trump lovers FRsport or Z1Motorsport have the correct bolts for sale.

 

  • Like 1
On 05/07/2017 at 10:45 AM, niZmO_Man said:

Something like this? http://www.empireperformance.com.au/home/138-mitsubishi-evolution-10-dimpled-and-slotted-front-brake-rotors.html

Also, there's a growing "trend" for the Commodore/GM Brembo calipers, not sure what the sizes are compared to Evo though.

has anyone got onto these guys lately? tried a few emails and calls and nothing back

41 minutes ago, Adz2332 said:

just looking to get out of it as cheap as i can for now 

You can get these for 249 delivered 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRILLED-SLOTTED-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evo-10-2-0L-FRONT-Disc-brake-Rotors-RDA7117D-/400684560716?hash=item5d4aa9314c:g:z9IAAMXQ2dBSHdix

or plain like this for 171 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RDA-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotor-RDA7117-Mitsubishi-Evo-10-NEW-Genuine-OEM-Car-Part-/262917106965?hash=item3d3714ad15:g:lXkAAOSwbl5Zh98c

 

These where the first few that ebay results came up with for evo x

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,  anybody considered trying the CTS-V caliper swap that seems to be real popular with the S-chassis crowd in the US? Just taking a glance at eBay it seems tonnes cheaper to grab a set of 6-pots off one of those than try and go the 350z Brembo route. Plus the parts can be had new instead of used and (correct me if I'm wrong here) the disk size is also bigger. One company's offering adaptors for the S13/14 and 300ZX (literally just called CTS-V Swaps or something, first result on Google), got in contact with the guy who says the S13s should work no problem for the 33 GTSTs/R34 GTs. Been thinking of looking into it for my R34 GT so if anyone else has given it a shot would be interested to hear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...