Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 Gtr Injector/Pump Issue

R32 gtr

Just rebuilt the motor and the car will crank but will not start. The first problem I found was that the fuel pump relay (Green one in boot I believe) is getting power but the 2 pin connector to the pump is not, I've tested the pump out of the car it works fine (brand new pump). I've also ran constant 12v to the pump to get it working (fuel is definitely coming out) but the car still wouldn't start. I have connected the sender hose to the line that goes to the back of the fuel rail which I think is correct.

Second issue is that the injectors have a weak pulse, inserting a noid light barely lights up 3 times and then stops lighting up after that.

Ecu is an Apexi Power FC, injectors are denso 720cc
Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Edited by Giaccovitch
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471152-r32-gtr-injectorpump-issue/
Share on other sites

Fuel pump electric problems can be related to the fuel pump control module (which switches either a soft or a full earth when its working) dying, and many people bypass it and run a new earth to the pump. I did that after the second FPCM died.

Re injectors, if they're high impedance then you need to bypass the resistor pack.

Long shot try jump starting. If it turns over really well it might lull you into a false impression of how much juice the battery is pumping out.

16 hours ago, MrStabby said:

Fuel pump electric problems can be related to the fuel pump control module (which switches either a soft or a full earth when its working) dying, and many people bypass it and run a new earth to the pump. I did that after the second FPCM died.

Re injectors, if they're high impedance then you need to bypass the resistor pack.

Long shot try jump starting. If it turns over really well it might lull you into a false impression of how much juice the battery is pumping out.

Will have a look at the fuel pump control module, I've heard about running a new earth to the pump, I'll have a search around if I can't get it working with the control module. Also they are Denso 720cc injectors 195500-0830 not sure if they are high impedance or not, if so what's the best way to bypass the resistor pack? i'm pretty sure I don't have a resistor pack as it was taken off the car by the previous owner

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 2 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...