Jump to content
SAU Community

Brendons M35 build


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/12/2017 at 10:32 AM, Sack87 said:

 I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little.

LOL LOL LOL what would Christian know!!! and why would you trust his flash tune meant for a different motor HAHAHA

 

Firstly your not making any power over 16PSI (on a stock turbo) as the turbo cant flow that much air your just producing extra heat.

Go see a real tuner and put the car on a dyno before you punch Piston #6 out of the block like the rest of you new age Stagea owners
and put a 100cell cat on the thing FFS

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, WAGON_BOY said:

LOL LOL LOL what would Christian know!!! and why would you trust his flash tune meant for a different motor HAHAHA

 

Firstly your not making any power over 16PSI (on a stock turbo) as the turbo cant flow that much air your just producing extra heat.

Go see a real tuner and put the car on a dyno before you punch Piston #6 out of the block like the rest of you new age Stagea owners
and put a 100cell cat on the thing FFS

And you know everything I assume, including how to hack and tune a factory Ecu?

Firstly I'm running a Billet Intense RS Turbo and secondly it's safe on 19psi as my AFR doesn't go above. 93v at WOT. 

And it's "you're" by the way. 

  • Like 5
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
3 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Does that actually achieve anything? Or just theoretical?

No idea haha, most probably not but it cost me nothing to make.

The more the better theoretically. I wanted to make up one that picks up several points but theres just no room under the car.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Interested in an Intense turbo and am running Itsrom ECU atm. I am getting just over 17psi atm (according to an autobarn gauge) using Scottys dump and front pipe and a Nur tailpipe. The car is vastly improved by Itsrom and has standard intake currently. Was thinking about Scottys Intake or an AMP one and wondered how you got on with yours? People talk about fuel cut and I figure the Intense and an intake is going to get there. You did not mention this so I was wondering what you did ... Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, leigh308 said:

Interested in an Intense turbo and am running Itsrom ECU atm. I am getting just over 17psi atm (according to an autobarn gauge) using Scottys dump and front pipe and a Nur tailpipe. The car is vastly improved by Itsrom and has standard intake currently. Was thinking about Scottys Intake or an AMP one and wondered how you got on with yours? People talk about fuel cut and I figure the Intense and an intake is going to get there. You did not mention this so I was wondering what you did ... Thanks

I've had no issues at all with my setup and haven''t had it fuel cut once.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
17 hours ago, Skylinefreak1 said:

That's some fancy fab work mate! Looks great! Anything else done recently?

Thanks mate.

I recently bought a TIG welder so I can do aluminium work but mostly to fix up my rear subframe as it's cracked.

I've got a few things in the works including building a new engine soon as the current one is cactus. Just trying to keep this one going until the other engine is ready :654_bomb:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So this is what I have in the works currently and I just tick along with them.

Designed and 3D printed a pistol grip style shifter. Unlike the generic ones you can buy, this one slides on like the factory one and uses the circlip to hold it on snug. The cover at the base fits like a glove but I was limited to how much radius I could put on the shifter to match the cover.

A2kDSB.jpg

I finalised the design of my 3D printed catch can so just waiting on fittings to come so I can hook it all up and test out how well the ABS holds up to heat and fumes. The fitting by itself replaces the factory PCV and I had to get that from the states.

E0CfUe.jpg

The catch can is fully baffled inside and just requires some steel wool and the other baffle to be fitted.The top had to be removable as you can't print a baffle inside and object and know if it has printed properly.

MQhFho.jpg

If the 3D printed one doesn't work, then I have all the individual pieces cut up ready to be fabbed up. This will be my first TIG welding project since buying one as I have only used MIG.

GstTjD.jpg

To get the fumes to the catch can location I made up a steel hard line that goes from the passenger cam cover, along the fuel rail and follows behind the timing cover.

v319dI.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Knocked up a cooling mod but mine uses an SOS fitting as the bleed point. If your're familiar with Caterpillar mining equipment then you'll know why I chose this!

l8AVAt.jpg

To go along with that I bought a generic breather tank setup that will most likely go above the passenger cam cover. This is the highest point in the engine bay, has the most room and is easier to tap into the bottom rad hose.

y4E2oc.jpg

After doing the rear rotors I saw that the subframe was cracked on both sides pretty badly, also another reason why I bought the TIG welder. I made up a cardboard template and the aluminium I transfer that to will get welded in for more strength.

Y9EZow.jpg

And most recently I had a knock senor code throw up after handling the harness. Found this just hanging out in the valley.

OfV3xj.jpg

Plan is to buy another harness and re plug the whole thing as most of the connectors are breaking apart or already broken.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, myothercarsa2cv said:

Amazing work Brendon as ever! Some tasty parts there that I’m sure a few of us would be interested in if you wanted to make some more... ;)

I plan on making some of this to sell in the future but I want to run it on my car for a bit to see what works and what doesn't.

I may make up a different catch can setup that uses easier hose routing but it means you can't run the turtle shell. 

Edited by Sack87
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my hose fittings yesterday and fitted the catch can. I'm not 100% sure I like this location now as the lines are just clearing the bonnet as they are sitting on top of the overflow bottle.
E0LHzK.jpg

PCV delete and hose fitting just have enough room with a 3" intake
Tx3kdJ.jpg

I will need to beef up the lid bracket and slightly adjust it as it snapped when moving it around. You can also just see the breather hidden away under the guard. I will move this too as it fouls on the guard liner.
zPn8ra.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Breathing is better without it plus it's the only way you can run a hose from that location without it hitting the intake or kinking.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • we can only guess exactly what happened from our keyboards, but to me it looks like they were targeting 27 but the wastegate was too small or poorly controlled and the boost crept up, that is quite common
    • Good points!  Took those for granted - though I *did* actually give an example of winding boost up more than it had been before where I wasn't actually specifically looking for more peak power.  The Toyota Starlet dyno plot that I shared and mentioned showed an overlay from the previous tune it had and the one I'd redone, I left the boost targetting the same as the old tune but then after peak power I ramped boost up by a good 5psi or so over what the old tune had at the same rpm. The reason I felt comfortable with this (though the owner of the car had a "are you sure?" moment when I suggested it) is that the setup wasn't turbo limited, it was largely head sealing limited and the owner was a bit concerned as for the last few seasons he'd had issues with head lifting - sometimes not completing an event without having some headgasket issue, so he didn't want to run any more boost than it was. The reasons I was ok with raising the boost a good 5+psi MORE than that was that I left it where it was in the middle, and only increased it where VE (and therefore cylinder pressure vs psi) were dropping hard and I didn't stop the torque from dropping, just reduced the drop.  Well, there is that and the fact that the previous tuner had it overtimed by near 7degrees at peak torque - but that's another story haha.    I didn't really go into detail about that "turning it up more" thing but now you've mentioned the "not detuning", sometimes the boost *can* be turned up higher than you'd expect if the setup allows for it and you do it smartly.  I've tuned things to run 30psi on BP98 "safely" that a few years ago (or still?) people would cry that it was a stupid idea - but given they were well intercooled, low EMAP turbos and only doing that kind of boost where VE is dropping etc I was pretty confident it wasn't as cowboy as it sounded at face value and we never ended up with issues as a result of it.     
    • they choose the number of psi (27) around 4200? Could it produce more at this engine speed with the same turbo?
    • one thing escapes me, if the turbo spool provides the maximum boost and we can't control anything before that, how can the boost be higher by it alone.   here around 27 psi at 4200 then up to 32 psi at 6500 rpm   how does the tuner do this
    • I'm still not sure what you are trying to acheive, but I wanted to clarify something about Lithium's response to your question...   Only within certain limits. All of the examples Lithium gave were of detuning for a particular reason. Before the engine/turbo/wastegate combination has hit full boost, you can't increase it....the wastegate is shut and the turbo is pushing as hard as it can Once the combination has hit the target (controlled) boost, you generally have full control over whether it makes more or less boost, because it is being limited/reduced from its potential. This is generally done by controlling the wastegate In the top end, with an undersized turbo, it is possible you won't get to your target boost anymore if the turbo is choking up. In this case you cannot increase boost any more without changing the setup. No change in cost compared to any decent build, other than tuning time to get the engine to make less power than it is able to at a certain point
×
×
  • Create New...