Jump to content
SAU Community

Brendons M35 build


Recommended Posts

Well I've got a100 cell cat and a blitz nur 80mm exhaust and it's too quiet! But of drinking at 2500rpm which I might tune out of i cbf...

So turbo smoke all gone with the fancy oil supply regulator?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, andynogo said:

Well I've got a100 cell cat and a blitz nur 80mm exhaust and it's too quiet! But of drinking at 2500rpm which I might tune out of i cbf...

So turbo smoke all gone with the fancy oil supply regulator?

Yeah no more smoke. Getting ready for tune. Just need to buy some injectors now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

What is the cutout? Boost activated?

Normally closed, boost activated. It opens at around 3psi instead of the stated 14psi so I need to put a boost tee in the line to open it later. It's stupidly loud hahahahaha

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 01/12/2019 at 12:46 AM, Sack87 said:

Normally closed, boost activated. It opens at around 3psi instead of the stated 14psi so I need to put a boost tee in the line to open it later. It's stupidly loud hahahahaha

I found the back pressure in my exhaust would prematurely open the valve. You may find even with a bleed valve it may not want to stay closed. Have you tested it with the boost line disconnected ? 
 

With mine closed my fueling requirement dropped by 13% and timing had to be retarded up top by approx 4 degrees. other wise exhaust manifold pressure/gas would creep back into the cylinders at high rpm and cause knock.  
 

I’ve read through your thread and I’m going to go out on a limb and say the EMU isn’t safe to use on your setup. The turbo you have is quite stout which makes the sensitivity of your engine to an improper tune substantial. The time spent rebuilding engines and constantly touching up the tune will justify moving to a safer more suitable option like the LINK fury ecu. 


Benefits are substantial:

-automatically adjust fueling based on fuel pressure so risk of leaning out is greatly reduced  

-Ability to simulate MAF output to keep the transmission happy when running a MAFLESS tune  

-No hot start problems that you get with the EMU when trying to balance correct injector lag times vs injector size compensation.

-Full rpm & load closed loop wideband fuel compensation  

-Gear based fueling&ignition timing 

-CAN bus integration to retard timing and boost during OEM torque reduction requests for gear change. I think I may be the only one with this working atm  

-CAN bus integration for Gear Position status in tiptronic mode. Again not sure if anyone else has the message IDs identified for this  

-ethrottle control for torque reduction at high rpm. Solves the over rpm issues when trying to change from 1st to 2nd under big power. Enables the rev limiter to be soft on the engine. 

-Cam Angle Ignition and Fueling compensation. 

-Perfect tuning gauge display is plug n play  

-perfect hot & cold starts

-Flex fuel tuning for any combo of E85 and ULD  

-Fuel Temperature compensation

-Anti-Lag

-Cruise control 

-proper data logging

-proper individual cylinder knock control

-etc etc etc 

 

As you can see what you get for the extra $ makes a substantial difference to your ability to mitigate against unstable combustion, ie engine damage. Also protection of the transmission. I’ve been through 5 gearboxes and 3 engines so learnt a lot along the way.  First M35 325awkw. Second M35 411awkw  

 

Matt

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, BoostdR said:

I found the back pressure in my exhaust would prematurely open the valve. You may find even with a bleed valve it may not want to stay closed. Have you tested it with the boost line disconnected ? 
 

With mine closed my fueling requirement dropped by 13% and timing had to be retarded up top by approx 4 degrees. other wise exhaust manifold pressure/gas would creep back into the cylinders at high rpm and cause knock.  
 

I’ve read through your thread and I’m going to go out on a limb and say the EMU isn’t safe to use on your setup. The turbo you have is quite stout which makes the sensitivity of your engine to an improper tune substantial. The time spent rebuilding engines and constantly touching up the tune will justify moving to a safer more suitable option like the LINK fury ecu. 

It's slightly open at idle so I need to put some more preload on the actuator. Even if it opens at 10psi I'll be happy.

EMU was cheap, Link is not. Basically it all comes down to money. Maybe later on I will go that route since I have made the harness plug and play.

What boost were you running on the EMU 98 tune (that's the one I'm going to put in and have the tuner touch it up)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, Sack87 said:

It's slightly open at idle so I need to put some more preload on the actuator. Even if it opens at 10psi I'll be happy.

EMU was cheap, Link is not. Basically it all comes down to money. Maybe later on I will go that route since I have made the harness plug and play.

What boost were you running on the EMU 98 tune (that's the one I'm going to put in and have the tuner touch it up)

It was running 26psi. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following this stage with great interest. I've for almost three same mods Brendan- and an EMU as well. I would love to go Link like Matthew has but at 3-3.5k tuned is just too much at the moment... and would be a massive over-capitalisation in my car. Having said that, I'll probably be disappointed with the EMU in the long run and and up going Link!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

So you driving this yet? Wondering how the hi stall is? Wondering if i need one after last night's drag racing stalling effort....10+ secs to get just over 3000rpm. Trouble is that it's the wife's car so need something that drives almost normally. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 16/01/2020 at 7:38 PM, andynogo said:

So you driving this yet? Wondering how the hi stall is? Wondering if i need one after last night's drag racing stalling effort....10+ secs to get just over 3000rpm. Trouble is that it's the wife's car so need something that drives almost normally. 

Yeah man it's my daily. High stall is a must with what you plan on doing. 

It's a little bit doughy when I'm taking off but that's expected as it needs more revs to get it moving. When it's at the right rpm and ready to go though, it's like a freight train.

Mine still takes about 10 seconds to stall up and gets to 11psi. It can make more once I get it tuned and get some more fuel in there down low.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...