Brendons M35 build

[andynogo]

Well I've got a100 cell cat and a blitz nur 80mm exhaust and it's too quiet! But of drinking at 2500rpm which I might tune out of i cbf...

So turbo smoke all gone with the fancy oil supply regulator?

[Sack87]

21 minutes ago, andynogo said:

Well I've got a100 cell cat and a blitz nur 80mm exhaust and it's too quiet! But of drinking at 2500rpm which I might tune out of i cbf...

So turbo smoke all gone with the fancy oil supply regulator?

Yeah no more smoke. Getting ready for tune. Just need to buy some injectors now.

[andynogo]

R35 gtr injectors are a cheap upgrade and might be enough? Unless you're going e85.

Edited November 4, 2019 by andynogo

[Sack87]

9 hours ago, andynogo said:

R35 gtr injectors are a cheap upgrade and might be enough? Unless you're going e85.

I need 980s for Matt's tuning file.

[Sack87]

Loud pipes save lives

[Ben C34]

What is the cutout? Boost activated?

[Sack87]

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

What is the cutout? Boost activated?

Normally closed, boost activated. It opens at around 3psi instead of the stated 14psi so I need to put a boost tee in the line to open it later. It's stupidly loud hahahahaha

[BoostdR]

On 01/12/2019 at 12:46 AM, Sack87 said:

Normally closed, boost activated. It opens at around 3psi instead of the stated 14psi so I need to put a boost tee in the line to open it later. It's stupidly loud hahahahaha

I found the back pressure in my exhaust would prematurely open the valve. You may find even with a bleed valve it may not want to stay closed. Have you tested it with the boost line disconnected ? 
 

With mine closed my fueling requirement dropped by 13% and timing had to be retarded up top by approx 4 degrees. other wise exhaust manifold pressure/gas would creep back into the cylinders at high rpm and cause knock.  
 

I’ve read through your thread and I’m going to go out on a limb and say the EMU isn’t safe to use on your setup. The turbo you have is quite stout which makes the sensitivity of your engine to an improper tune substantial. The time spent rebuilding engines and constantly touching up the tune will justify moving to a safer more suitable option like the LINK fury ecu. 

Benefits are substantial:

-automatically adjust fueling based on fuel pressure so risk of leaning out is greatly reduced  

-Ability to simulate MAF output to keep the transmission happy when running a MAFLESS tune  

-No hot start problems that you get with the EMU when trying to balance correct injector lag times vs injector size compensation.

-Full rpm & load closed loop wideband fuel compensation  

-Gear based fueling&ignition timing 

-CAN bus integration to retard timing and boost during OEM torque reduction requests for gear change. I think I may be the only one with this working atm  

-CAN bus integration for Gear Position status in tiptronic mode. Again not sure if anyone else has the message IDs identified for this  

-ethrottle control for torque reduction at high rpm. Solves the over rpm issues when trying to change from 1st to 2nd under big power. Enables the rev limiter to be soft on the engine. 

-Cam Angle Ignition and Fueling compensation. 

-Perfect tuning gauge display is plug n play  

-perfect hot & cold starts

-Flex fuel tuning for any combo of E85 and ULD  

-Fuel Temperature compensation

-Anti-Lag

-Cruise control 

-proper data logging

-proper individual cylinder knock control

-etc etc etc 

 

As you can see what you get for the extra $ makes a substantial difference to your ability to mitigate against unstable combustion, ie engine damage. Also protection of the transmission. I’ve been through 5 gearboxes and 3 engines so learnt a lot along the way.  First M35 325awkw. Second M35 411awkw  

 

Matt

 

 

 

[Sack87]

2 hours ago, BoostdR said:

I found the back pressure in my exhaust would prematurely open the valve. You may find even with a bleed valve it may not want to stay closed. Have you tested it with the boost line disconnected ? 
 

With mine closed my fueling requirement dropped by 13% and timing had to be retarded up top by approx 4 degrees. other wise exhaust manifold pressure/gas would creep back into the cylinders at high rpm and cause knock.  
 

I’ve read through your thread and I’m going to go out on a limb and say the EMU isn’t safe to use on your setup. The turbo you have is quite stout which makes the sensitivity of your engine to an improper tune substantial. The time spent rebuilding engines and constantly touching up the tune will justify moving to a safer more suitable option like the LINK fury ecu. 

It's slightly open at idle so I need to put some more preload on the actuator. Even if it opens at 10psi I'll be happy.

EMU was cheap, Link is not. Basically it all comes down to money. Maybe later on I will go that route since I have made the harness plug and play.

What boost were you running on the EMU 98 tune (that's the one I'm going to put in and have the tuner touch it up)

[BoostdR]

33 minutes ago, Sack87 said:

It's slightly open at idle so I need to put some more preload on the actuator. Even if it opens at 10psi I'll be happy.

EMU was cheap, Link is not. Basically it all comes down to money. Maybe later on I will go that route since I have made the harness plug and play.

What boost were you running on the EMU 98 tune (that's the one I'm going to put in and have the tuner touch it up)

It was running 26psi. 

[Sack87]

And you destroyed the box with that boost? A $50 parts sounds like it's turning into $5000 haha

[andynogo]

Following this stage with great interest. I've for almost three same mods Brendan- and an EMU as well. I would love to go Link like Matthew has but at 3-3.5k tuned is just too much at the moment... and would be a massive over-capitalisation in my car. Having said that, I'll probably be disappointed with the EMU in the long run and and up going Link!

[Sack87]

Made up a bespoke front underbody brace since I need something unique to my Stagea ?

 

Edited January 1, 2020 by Sack87

[andynogo]

So you driving this yet? Wondering how the hi stall is? Wondering if i need one after last night's drag racing stalling effort....10+ secs to get just over 3000rpm. Trouble is that it's the wife's car so need something that drives almost normally. 

[Sack87]

On 16/01/2020 at 7:38 PM, andynogo said:

So you driving this yet? Wondering how the hi stall is? Wondering if i need one after last night's drag racing stalling effort....10+ secs to get just over 3000rpm. Trouble is that it's the wife's car so need something that drives almost normally. 

Yeah man it's my daily. High stall is a must with what you plan on doing. 

It's a little bit doughy when I'm taking off but that's expected as it needs more revs to get it moving. When it's at the right rpm and ready to go though, it's like a freight train.

Mine still takes about 10 seconds to stall up and gets to 11psi. It can make more once I get it tuned and get some more fuel in there down low.