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Haha which part mate? 
No sorcery just good gear and products [emoji4]

My Stagea looks in similar nick to that WRX with the spiderwebbing. I'd be most keen to learn how you get your results.
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  • 2 months later...
So this little guy is a Flex PE-8 its an 800W rotary polisher. I f**ken love this little guy! 
I have backing plated from 3" down to 1" and with the extension bars that i have there literally isn't a place i can't get to [emoji4]
20170609_153629.thumb.jpg.03edd82e0ace457833ed76efc71fc0aa.jpg


He mick_o

How do you find this guy on the paint, being a rotary and all?
I've recently purchased a 3401 and love it.... but since the cars I have all seem to have little bits that I'll never be able to get the 3401 with a 5in pad I'm looking to get something smaller to use in conjunction with the 3401[emoji4]
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Its an absolute must have mate. I dont run it any higher than on 2 even slower if you have a heavy cut pad.

Obviously being rotary they do create alot of heat quite quick so dont apply much pressure or stay stationary long.

Generally speaking an orange pad (light/medium cut) will be good enough to correct most defects with an appropriate cut compound for the correction needed. Least that way the softer pad wont generate the friction or heat that can burn paint and cause those "horror stories" you hear of people burning their paint ?

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Another tip would be play with different combinations of pads and compounds. Dont think you HAVE TO only use a heavy cut compound with a heavy cut pad. 

Play around a bit. Sometimes you might get the desired level of correction you need with a light cut pad but heavy cut compound for example. 

The aim of the game is to take the minimal amount of clear off needed to chop out those swirls and scratches ?

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3 hours ago, HKL32R said:

Hey mick, any tips for when using a clay bar i need to do my car but not sure how to go about it.

Hi mate only clay bar your car if you plan on giving it a full detail.

Its basically the 2nd step (after washing) As it will be stripping off any wax or sealants you have on your paint.

A clay bar is an abraisive so cuts all the surface decontamination away and those contaminants stick to the clay.. It leaves you with a fresh clean surface ready to start your correction/polishing process. ?

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Hi mate only clay bar your car if you plan on giving it a full detail.
Its basically the 2nd step (after washing) As it will be stripping off any wax or sealants you have on your paint.
A clay bar is an abraisive so cuts all the surface decontamination away and those contaminants stick to the clay.. It leaves you with a fresh clean surface ready to start your correction/polishing process. [emoji4]
Thanks heaps yeh i might give a orbital polisher a go i been doing it by hand and it takes me all day and i still cant get it glass like your pictures. :D
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Yeah you could never do the work of a polisher by hand haha! 

So for the clay bar process obviously make sure the car has been washed. Grab your bar and knead it into a size that covers your 4 fingers. 

For claying you need lubrication (spray detailer) to prevent marring and further adding swirls. 

Try working in 2ft squares. Add plenty of spray detailer and work in up, down left, right motions not circles. 

You will feel the clay kinda dragging. Can even sound like sandpaper sometimes on bad cars!

Basically work in the above actions till the clay bar slides smoothly over the surface. 

Use a microfibre cloth to wipe off the spray detailer and move to the next section. 

Check your clay bar after your section and see what crusty crap is on your bar. 

After every section you should knead up your bar again so you have a nice clean section to work with!

Heres a mad tip too...

After you wash your car run your fingertips over your paint.. You will feel how rough it is.. 

Go grab yourself a plastic sandwich bag or the likes put your hand in the bag and feel the paint again. 

Let me know what you feel ?

Do that before and after claying the car to know if you have got all the surface contaminants off ready to polish her up!

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Yeah you could never do the work of a polisher by hand haha! 
So for the clay bar process obviously make sure the car has been washed. Grab your bar and knead it into a size that covers your 4 fingers. 
For claying you need lubrication (spray detailer) to prevent marring and further adding swirls. 
Try working in 2ft squares. Add plenty of spray detailer and work in up, down left, right motions not circles. 
You will feel the clay kinda dragging. Can even sound like sandpaper sometimes on bad cars!
Basically work in the above actions till the clay bar slides smoothly over the surface. 
Use a microfibre cloth to wipe off the spray detailer and move to the next section. 
Check your clay bar after your section and see what crusty crap is on your bar. 
After every section you should knead up your bar again so you have a nice clean section to work with!
Heres a mad tip too...
After you wash your car run your fingertips over your paint.. You will feel how rough it is.. 
Go grab yourself a plastic sandwich bag or the likes put your hand in the bag and feel the paint again. 
Let me know what you feel [emoji6]
Do that before and after claying the car to know if you have got all the surface contaminants off ready to polish her up!
Madd tips man thanks heaps i am keen to give it a go :)
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