Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha which part mate? 
No sorcery just good gear and products [emoji4]

My Stagea looks in similar nick to that WRX with the spiderwebbing. I'd be most keen to learn how you get your results.
  • 2 months later...
So this little guy is a Flex PE-8 its an 800W rotary polisher. I f**ken love this little guy! 
I have backing plated from 3" down to 1" and with the extension bars that i have there literally isn't a place i can't get to [emoji4]
20170609_153629.thumb.jpg.03edd82e0ace457833ed76efc71fc0aa.jpg


He mick_o

How do you find this guy on the paint, being a rotary and all?
I've recently purchased a 3401 and love it.... but since the cars I have all seem to have little bits that I'll never be able to get the 3401 with a 5in pad I'm looking to get something smaller to use in conjunction with the 3401[emoji4]

Its an absolute must have mate. I dont run it any higher than on 2 even slower if you have a heavy cut pad.

Obviously being rotary they do create alot of heat quite quick so dont apply much pressure or stay stationary long.

Generally speaking an orange pad (light/medium cut) will be good enough to correct most defects with an appropriate cut compound for the correction needed. Least that way the softer pad wont generate the friction or heat that can burn paint and cause those "horror stories" you hear of people burning their paint ?

  • Like 1

Another tip would be play with different combinations of pads and compounds. Dont think you HAVE TO only use a heavy cut compound with a heavy cut pad. 

Play around a bit. Sometimes you might get the desired level of correction you need with a light cut pad but heavy cut compound for example. 

The aim of the game is to take the minimal amount of clear off needed to chop out those swirls and scratches ?

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, HKL32R said:

Hey mick, any tips for when using a clay bar i need to do my car but not sure how to go about it.

Hi mate only clay bar your car if you plan on giving it a full detail.

Its basically the 2nd step (after washing) As it will be stripping off any wax or sealants you have on your paint.

A clay bar is an abraisive so cuts all the surface decontamination away and those contaminants stick to the clay.. It leaves you with a fresh clean surface ready to start your correction/polishing process. ?

Hi mate only clay bar your car if you plan on giving it a full detail.
Its basically the 2nd step (after washing) As it will be stripping off any wax or sealants you have on your paint.
A clay bar is an abraisive so cuts all the surface decontamination away and those contaminants stick to the clay.. It leaves you with a fresh clean surface ready to start your correction/polishing process. [emoji4]
Thanks heaps yeh i might give a orbital polisher a go i been doing it by hand and it takes me all day and i still cant get it glass like your pictures. :D

Yeah you could never do the work of a polisher by hand haha! 

So for the clay bar process obviously make sure the car has been washed. Grab your bar and knead it into a size that covers your 4 fingers. 

For claying you need lubrication (spray detailer) to prevent marring and further adding swirls. 

Try working in 2ft squares. Add plenty of spray detailer and work in up, down left, right motions not circles. 

You will feel the clay kinda dragging. Can even sound like sandpaper sometimes on bad cars!

Basically work in the above actions till the clay bar slides smoothly over the surface. 

Use a microfibre cloth to wipe off the spray detailer and move to the next section. 

Check your clay bar after your section and see what crusty crap is on your bar. 

After every section you should knead up your bar again so you have a nice clean section to work with!

Heres a mad tip too...

After you wash your car run your fingertips over your paint.. You will feel how rough it is.. 

Go grab yourself a plastic sandwich bag or the likes put your hand in the bag and feel the paint again. 

Let me know what you feel ?

Do that before and after claying the car to know if you have got all the surface contaminants off ready to polish her up!

Yeah you could never do the work of a polisher by hand haha! 
So for the clay bar process obviously make sure the car has been washed. Grab your bar and knead it into a size that covers your 4 fingers. 
For claying you need lubrication (spray detailer) to prevent marring and further adding swirls. 
Try working in 2ft squares. Add plenty of spray detailer and work in up, down left, right motions not circles. 
You will feel the clay kinda dragging. Can even sound like sandpaper sometimes on bad cars!
Basically work in the above actions till the clay bar slides smoothly over the surface. 
Use a microfibre cloth to wipe off the spray detailer and move to the next section. 
Check your clay bar after your section and see what crusty crap is on your bar. 
After every section you should knead up your bar again so you have a nice clean section to work with!
Heres a mad tip too...
After you wash your car run your fingertips over your paint.. You will feel how rough it is.. 
Go grab yourself a plastic sandwich bag or the likes put your hand in the bag and feel the paint again. 
Let me know what you feel [emoji6]
Do that before and after claying the car to know if you have got all the surface contaminants off ready to polish her up!
Madd tips man thanks heaps i am keen to give it a go :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...