Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your photo does not show your boost T so no idea if it is right. You have an aftermarket BOV which appears to be venting to atmosphere in which case that will not be good. The vacuum line to the BOV doesn't look right but I can't see where it goes.

Looks like you have connected the boost feed on the throttle body (which I believe is pre throttle and not MAP) to the BOV and the MAP line that is supposed to go to the BOV to the steel line for the charcoal canister.

So there should be 2 solid lines that go from the charcoal canister to around the cam covers (can sort of see them in that photo). One of these should be hooked up to the throttle body boost nipple and the other to manifold. Just check that is what is happening. As I said above, looks like youve mixed one up with the BOV line

Boost Tee should go between cooler pipe and wastegate (assuming internal gate, external can be a little more complicated)

Boost gauge should be fed from the manifold

So here's some better pics, it's been ages since I had my last turbo car and this just doesn't seem right to me so thought I'd get some opinions..

 

im aware the bov is atmospheric I'll be changing it to plumb back one before it gets regoed..

 

also im unsure if the boost T is legal on qld streets so if anyone else picks up on things I gotta change plz let me kno...the charcoal can has been removed from previous owner guessing I'll have to source one for roadworthy purposes..

any help is greatly appreciated thanx 

IMG_0197.JPG

IMG_0198.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...