Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Blocking rb25det block heater hose fittings

Hi Guys

In the process of rebuilding my 25.

Since deleting the heater, i've always had the feed and return hoses looped, now the motor is out im looking to block the fittings completely. 

 

The left fitting is threaded in. The right fittings looks pressed in. Am I ok to block these off instead of them being looped? The car is track only and looking to tidy up under the plenum. 

 

Pic attached of fittings in question. Thanks for any help. 

IMG_2021.JPG

Did this recently on an RB25/30 build. We still have the stock oil filter/cooler fitted, and I ran a hose from each of the fittings circled in your pic to the oil cooler. I had to buy a couple of 3/4" to 5/8" (I think) brass adaptors - the fittings in the block are 3/4" (or 19mm), while the oil cooler hoses are smaller. If you aren't using the oil cooler, I'd probably put a hose between these 2 fittings. If you want to block them off you can get blanking plugs to fit - I bought heavy duty silicon ones off ebay to block some other coolant & vacuum pipes.

 

 

No idea - someone else may know. As I said, at the least I'd run a hose between the 2 outlets to keep the flow somewhat similar to stock. Ours has been on the track a couple of times since building the motor, and we've had no overheating issues.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'll have a dig around for the receipt for the threaded plug. Cant remember the size, i just took the fitting with me to get matched up. 

The plug for the filter housing hole is about 18.5mm. Ended up getting a 3/4in welch plug and ground it down a touch and used some sealant. No leaks so looks good so far. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...