Jump to content
SAU Community

Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5


Recommended Posts

Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5

Before I have my r32 tuned on a haltech, I want to install new turbos. My goal is 600-650hp. Currently making 530hp on R34N1 turbos. Cant decide between gtx2863,2530 or 2860-5.

Current setup

530@19psi

2.8l (supposedly tomei stroker)

tomei cams

tomei manifolds

nismo intake manifold

700cc injectors

nismo fpr/pump

N1 oil pump and water pump

R34 N1 (AA403) turbos

hpi elbows 

mines frontpipe

Decat

HKS exhaust 

tomei ecu

IMG_1715.JPG

IMG_1794.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it would be easier, though I already have a lot invested in a twin turbo setup. Tomei Manifolds, HPI elbows,Mines  downpipe and hks Intercooler piping. 

Edited by Trailmix
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would go GTX2860Rs, personally.  I suspect they are a bit underestimated and they should do your target power range with really good response.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm making around 290 awkw on GT-SS. 

Putting in a set of newly rebuilt HKS 2510 with GTX2863 compressor wheels (not the whole CHRA) this week. I.E, they end up being a 2510 turbine, turbine housing, compressor housing with the GTX wheel.

Will report back in the Dyno thread by the end of the week if i wasted my money or not :-)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

I'm making around 290 awkw on GT-SS. 

Putting in a set of newly rebuilt HKS 2510 with GTX2863 compressor wheels (not the whole CHRA) this week. I.E, they end up being a 2510 turbine, turbine housing, compressor housing with the GTX wheel.

Will report back in the Dyno thread by the end of the week if i wasted my money or not :-)

 

What power are you shooting for with that setup? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

What power are you shooting for with that setup? 

Hoping for your generic -5 power on a standard unbuilt 26 with pump fuel. I.E 340 -350 awkw on around 22 psi. In theory i should have similar to -9 response with -5 power.

Depends on how healthy my motor is, and final tune..

Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 8.34.24 PM.png

Edited by djvoodoo
upload pic
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, GT-R David said:


I think this is what almost everyone wants.
Im looking forward to see the results.

Too good to be true :-) Well, we should find out by Friday. I've read the whole GTX thread, and most people are using the 2863 CHRA with mixed results. This turbo is not the same, so a little unsure how they will react on my setup.

Motor health for me will determine how aggressive final tune can be. I've had a few dud tunes over the past 4 years so trying to be on the cautious side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote I.E 340 -350 awkw on around 22 psi. In theory i should have similar to -9 response with -5 power.
I've got this [emoji16] but it's achieved through a 26/30 build with -5 turbos, amazing response and making 360awkw on 22psi.
And at roll racing the other night, wasn't much that could hold me through 2nd and third gear

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the mystery engine that somehow made 395rwkw on N1s? 

I'm using a bigger set of turbos and E85 and only managed 380rwkw, which I thought was considered decent for -9s. That's with N1 manifolds, good intercooler, big dumps, big exhaust etc. 

The only way you're going to retain N1/-7/-9 like response and make a minimum 447rwkw/600rwhp is to go full twin scroll (twin gates) single and most likely e85 and bump up the capacity decently.

200cc of extra capacity is not going to change the lag considerably. 

What dyno did the car make the 530rwhp on? Or is that 530 calculated engine HP? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can reach 600 rw murican HP a lot easier than you can Australian HP. 

Our dynos seem to read very differently. 

If we ignore the numbers and just say you want to make 15-20% more power to the wheels at minimum (530 -> 600/650) and you can currently do 530 on N1s, any of those turbo combos will get you there, but the car will not be as responsive. 

You can look at putting better ramp rate/lift cams in as the Tomei are known for being a little soft, ramp especially. With cam gear adjustments you will "almost" match the response but with substantially more grunt up to. 

Otherwise, more cubes and full spec TS setup :)

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Trailmix said:

It was on a dynocom 5000FX, which is a AWD Dyno. Though all the pulls where made in RWD. You can see the engine HP/TQ at the bottom of the graph. 609hp /453tq

I think what most people here are trying to say is R34 N1 (or -7) turbo's do not flow enough to make 400rwkw, even with a 2.8l. They are a 500ps range turbo.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No matter the difference in dynos. My turbos are not that responsive low end like a -7 should be not seeing full boost until 5500 range. The gtx2860/2863 should spool up around the same, as my current setup? 

Edited by Trailmix
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No idea because lots of what you say is contradictory? 

N1s basically ARE -7s so if they are magically not that responsive yet make 530rwhp, then maybe they are not N1s?

You will also LOSE response from having bigger cams, if you're not compensating with gear adjustments, timing changes etc. 

Post some dyno graphs with RPM and Boost. 

I think you need to work out what you actually have first. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...