Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, r32-25t said:

What are the inducer and exducer sizes?

Turbo Billet Compressor Wheel Garrett GT2860RS 813711-0003 (47.1 / 60.13mm) 6+6

Nose Dia. : 11.72 mm
Inducer Dia. : 47.10 mm
Exducer Dia. : 60.13 mm
Extend Tapered Tip Exducer Dia. : 64.98 mm
Tip Height : 5.21 mm
Super Back Height : 2.30 mm
Overall Height : 29.50 mm
Bore Size : 5.99 mm
Racing or Non-racing : Racing
STD or customs size : STD with cutback added
Trailing Angle : 45 Degree
Blade : 6+6
Bore Type : Through
Fits OE Comp Hsg : Fit OE Comp Hsg
Cutback : 6.0
Rotation : Forward

 

 

 

9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Good luck, looks as much of a fail as trying to fit 1/2 height injectors with 3/4 height extensions to a R34 NEO intake manifold.

Suitable for Turbo/Chra or Upgrade for 739548/446179-0066

Well that's equivalent to a gtx2863 compressor wheel but in 6+6 blades instead of 11+0. 2863 wheel mated to gt2510 turbine has already been tested and proven to be a fail. I can't recall if you're on gt28 or gt25 turbine but either way that's too much compressor flow for a stock housing gtr turbo IMHO.

  • Like 2

I have hks 2530 47.7-60, .60

GTX2863 more diameter, more difficult to untwist, in addition, the weight at the ends of the wheel at 2863 more, which at 300,000 rpm becomes a big difference

GTX2863 weigh 63g, and the GTX2860 56g, these wheels weigh only 47g, the stock weighs 50g

However, I am thinking about putting a turbine house .72 instead of .64

Edited by frakzz

Weight of the wheel doesn't influence the rpm you see full boost. Wheel aero, balance between compressor and turbine capacity/diameter and turbine housing are the main factors.

Weight of the compressor wheel somewhat matters during transient (between gear shift or when you floor it above boost threshold for example). But weight is nothing really, it is how it's distributed around the axis of revolution ie inertia that is important.
And while your new wheels are lighter they're also bigger in diameter. The weight is further away from the axis and distance account as squared when you calculate the inertia. So weight means almost nothing for transient. Especially when the turbine is more than twice the weight.

For the record these wheels will not hold themselves at 300k rpm. They may spin up to 165k rpm but that's about it.

Fitting bigger wheel in stock housing will just net you more lag for marginally better power if any.
Going bigger exhaust housing should help you unveil that theoretical power that these wheels may flow but it will add another bunch of lag.

For the money you'll spend fitting these wheels and sourcing .72 a/r exhaust housing you could get a good single outspooling/outflowing and with way better transient than what you're building.

If you want more response with a 26 with stock-ish twins you should stroke the engine, install a variable valve timing (hks one or made one yourself as I did on my 20), go single turbo or do the three solutions I mentioned.

If you just want more power this is the same recipe except for the variable valve timing.

But that's your car, your money, your life. There is just a consensus here that tells you that it is a terrible idea that has been tested before albeit with smaller gt25 turbine (hks gt2530 comes with the gt28 turbine).

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Now the car is going very well, but there is a turbojam at the switchings. I want to fix this and get 600 + bhp.  Unfortunately, forged wheels from 2860-5s do not make. Who can help to choose the best wheels? Attached file with list of wheels

xfdcb6d21-2b5a-4003-bb5b-1c910c03037d.thumb.jpg.09cd099a541ff136b276778846d0b8b3.jpg.pagespeed.ic.kenrDB07BB.jpg

Billet Compressor Wheel.xls

Edited by frakzz

Frakzz just give up on the twins mate you're wasting your money and time.

Put 1 turbo on it that will meet your goals it will make the power it will be far more responsive and make for a more reliable healthy engine if you choose an appropriate sized turbine housing.

Chase your tail on every possible wheel combination possible THEY WILL ALL FAIL!

Why not just spend that money on a nice single so you dont have to keep pulling turbos on and off and paying to have them machined, retuning and dyno time etc. Its gunna be more fun to drive, will actually be running instead of living on a hoist & did i mention will be more responsive??   JOB DONE! 

Edited by Mick_o
  • Like 1

Just realized its taking almost 2 seconds to come onto target boost pressure between gears.... Thats TERRIBLE! 

I dont wanna be sounding like a complete cock here. But i do appreciate the effort you are going to and sharing all your data.

These are the things that help people make informed decisions about setting their cars up.

But i think you need to look at your data and how many times you have fallen short of your goals and cut your losses and bolt on a nice manifold and single and enjoy your car! 

I will not give up ))
How about this? https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-pro-boosted-garrett-gt2860r-bb-700-hp-billet-wheel-ball-bearing-twin-turbo-kit-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-739548-5009s-kt_p_17163.php

what about this wheel?

Nose Dia. : 15.41 mm
Inducer Dia. : 46.52 mm
Exducer Dia. : 60.13 mm
Extend Tapered Tip Exducer Dia. : No Extend Tip
Tip Height : 6.16 mm
Super Back Height : 2.30 mm
Overall Height : 24.50 mm
Bore Size : 5.99 mm
Racing or Non-racing : Non-Racing
STD or customs size : STD size
Trailing Angle : 45 Degree
Blade : 6+6
Bore Type : Through
Fits OE Comp Hsg : Fit OE Comp Hsg
Cutback : 0.0
Rotation : Forward

Edited by frakzz

Just jamming a bunch of different compressor wheels in isnt going to fix your problem, you need to look at everything as a package.

Start also looking at your housing sizes and turbine wheel sizes or just put a single on where someone else has done all the work for you

9 hours ago, Mick_o said:

You must have lots of money to burn? 

How many attemts will you have? 

You wont find a combination that works because there quite simply isn't one!

 

I can always put the wheels from 5s and it will definitely work. They are simply cast wheels, but they want billet.

21 minutes ago, frakzz said:

I can always put the wheels from 5s and it will definitely work. They are simply cast wheels, but they want billet.

So just bolt a set of 5s on mate and be done with it??

Whats the attraction of billet? As has been said numerous times there is not enough turbine to drive a billet wheel efficiently.

 But dont expect them or any twin turbo setup to last long with 600hp as you will simply cook them running them WAAAY out of their efficiency range.

23 hours ago, frakzz said:

Now the car is going very well, but there is a turbojam at the switchings. I want to fix this and get 600 + bhp.  Unfortunately, forged wheels from 2860-5s do not make. Who can help to choose the best wheels? Attached file with list of wheels

xfdcb6d21-2b5a-4003-bb5b-1c910c03037d.thumb.jpg.09cd099a541ff136b276778846d0b8b3.jpg.pagespeed.ic.kenrDB07BB.jpg

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445007-the-frankinstien-twin-turbo-thread/

 

I found this. Might give you a whole heap of new idea’s for your frankenfails. Make sure you give a failure % too.

Carry on.

?

what role does Trailing Angle play? 45/60

CZP Pro-Boosted Garrett GT2860R BB 700+ HP Billet Wheel used this wheels

Nose OD: 11.82 mm

Inducer Dia.: 49.62 mm

Exducer Dia. : 61.98 mm

Extend Tapered Tip Exducerdia : 65.90 mm

Tip Height : 4.95 mm

Super Back Height : 2.32 mm

Overall Height : 27.63 mm

Bore: 5.99 mm

Bore Type : Through

Blade : 6+6

Rotation: Forward

Edited by frakzz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
    • No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is.  
    • Toasty! I was around the same. Around 50 but with a fuel cooler. Got my tuner to dial down the pumps and its so much better.. i think last time I drove it was around 35-40 during summer. PWM makes a huge diff. I have the 1 PWM controller running my feeds.
×
×
  • Create New...