Jump to content
SAU Community

12 second plan of attack.

Remix-
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
see my sig for times.  (beofre cooler and flywheel)

I looking for 12s (12.9) as I just fitted a lightweight flywheel which are reputedly good for 0.4 - 0.5.

Also bolted in front mount cooler which should add a touch.

PowerFC coming soon.

Definent 12s

Join the exclusive 12 second stock turboed, no nos, street rubber club.

I doubt whether the flywheel would help you that much. So if i fitted the flywheel i would be running mid 12's, i doubt it, but still if i picked up 0.1 i'd be happy.

I picked up over 3/10's and 4mph with the intercooler.

japsky33 Enthusiast

japsky33

Posted
Posted

Yeah I agree thats why next time when I'm not wheel spinning so bad I will get the 120mph. 120MPH should put any car deep into the 11's even 10's.

You can watch the video of it the car lights it into 3rd gear

BR,

JH

Alot of mods there, i wouldnt be happy with anything short of 120mph.
knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted
Join the exclusive 12 second stock turboed, no nos, street rubber club.

I doubt whether the flywheel would help you that much.  So if i fitted the flywheel i would be running mid 12's, i doubt it, but still if i picked up 0.1 i'd be happy.

I picked up over 3/10's and 4mph with the intercooler.

I still cant beleive you got a 12 with standard turbo, are you SURE its still the standard turbo? I spose with that 60ft time and a perfect drive its not impossible

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
Posted

Here's my response from boostcruising:

I'm in exactly the same situation as you so here's my advice based on waaay too many hours of research:

- 2530 will make plenty of power all the way to redline. You've picked the perfect turbo so don't worry about that.

- I'm also hesitant to upgrade my injectors without really needing to. You've got the cost of injectors ($300-400), management ($1500-2000), AFM ($300) plus labour. Just make the most out of what you've got and be happy with it.

- Get the car on a dyno and just run the most boost you can before totally maxing out the injectors. I'm hoping to run 1.2-1.3bar max.

- Put some 225/50/16 semi-slicks on your stock rims (something like Falken RT215s which are fairly cheap) and drop the air pressure to 20psi.

- Swap your coilovers for a standard set of springs and shocks for the weekend.

- Install 'pineapples' (subframe bushes) to minimise axle tramp.

- Lightened flywheel will definately be an advantage. I'm looking round for a twin plate clutch which come with lightened flywheel, not as light as aftermarket but better than stock.

That's exactly what i'm planning for my car and hopefully with some practice and luck i can run a 12.7-12.8 (or maybe slightly better with my weight advantage over the r32).

japsky33 Enthusiast

japsky33

Posted
Posted

Im telling ya 20psi in ya tyres wont do anything noticable get them squashed run 8psi do a massive burnout and then launch and tell me if it made no difference.

BR

JH

Here's my response from boostcruising:

I'm in exactly the same situation as you so here's my advice based on waaay too many hours of research:

- 2530 will make plenty of power all the way to redline. You've picked the perfect turbo so don't worry about that.

- I'm also hesitant to upgrade my injectors without really needing to. You've got the cost of injectors ($300-400), management ($1500-2000), AFM ($300) plus labour. Just make the most out of what you've got and be happy with it.

- Get the car on a dyno and just run the most boost you can before totally maxing out the injectors. I'm hoping to run 1.2-1.3bar max.

- Put some 225/50/16 semi-slicks on your stock rims (something like Falken RT215s which are fairly cheap) and drop the air pressure to 20psi.

- Swap your coilovers for a standard set of springs and shocks for the weekend.

- Install 'pineapples' (subframe bushes) to minimise axle tramp.

- Lightened flywheel will definately be an advantage. I'm looking round for a twin plate clutch which come with lightened flywheel, not as light as aftermarket but better than stock.

That's exactly what i'm planning for my car and hopefully with some practice and luck i can run a 12.7-12.8 (or maybe slightly better with my weight advantage over the r32).

MM2death Grand Master

MM2death

Posted
Posted
WSID was designed to be one of the quickest, legal drag racing tracks in the world. There's alot of sneaky development that went into building the track, that all fits within acceptable rules. Little things like the maximum amount of downhill gradient allowed, track surface and base, as well as the U shaped design to mimimise headwind etc.

Thanks,

Scott

japsky33 Enthusiast

japsky33

Posted
Posted

Hi mate,

with regards to spinning on the rims Im not sure I am no way a tyre expert I just tried the 20psi then 15 but found huge difference with sub 10psi in them.

Yes doing 12's on standard turbo does amaze me a bit. ?? Have you guys got a dyno print out ? The guys pulling the high 12s ons tandard turbos?

BR,

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...