Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing Manifold Studs

Fr3akyR33

By Fr3akyR33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fr3akyR33 Enthusiast

Fr3akyR33

Posted
Posted

Replacing Manifold Studs

Hey guys, I really have no idea how to start as I am pretty new to the whole world of fixing/replacing parts for my car. At the moment I am at the point of doing my manifold as they have no studs what so ever so I got 12 new ones and really do not know how to get to it or what to do to fix it and I would love to do it by myself. If there is a DIY tutorial anywhere here can someone link me or if not, just guide me as what to do, will want to start it this weekend and I will post pictures. So far I know i have to take off the J piping and the turbo, but still pretty unsure. Any help is highly appreciated. :) 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471582-replacing-manifold-studs/
Share on other sites
vxsr33 Proficient

vxsr33

Posted
Posted

Put aside a full weekend for the job. You will have to remove all piping around the turbo then disconnect the downpipe and coolant and oil lines going to the turbo (have bucket ready when removing coolant hoses). You should be able to undo the manifold from the block with the turbo still attached but it might be easier to remove the turbo first.

Once you get the exhaust manifold off you will have to drill the studs, use an easy out to remove them, then put the new ones in (google this step).

Put everything back together. Pour a bit of oil into the turbo oil feed before you connect the line so it doesn't run dry on startup. Before you start the car I would also disconnect the cas and crank the car over about 20 times to get oil circulating through the turbo.

Things you will need:
-new manifold studs
-new manifold gasket
- new t3 turbo gasket (if you remove turbo from manifold, but it can't hurt to put a new one anyway)
-new dump pipe gasket
- new copper washers for turbo lines (i picked up a big box of assorted ones from united tools for $20)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • LaurelPWR
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By LaurelPWR 路 Posted

      That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz 路 Posted

      I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
脳
脳
  • Create New...