Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DET Greddy Copy Front Facing plenum pipe work

I know there is a DIY thread about this but the pictures no longer seem to be there, I just had a few questions on installing a "Freddy" manifold onto my S2 RB25DET which is completely factory otherwise.  

So my questions are: Can I connect the turbo water feed coming around the back of the block (A) onto the Tee coming out beside the thermostat spout (A) or is (B) better to use?

Can I just block off that rear Tee (B) with a bolt clamped into a short hose otherwise?

Does the other pipe coming out of the AAC valve (C)  go into a bung welded into the boost piping before the throttle body? And does the rest of the piping for the idle valve look correct? 

Is it true that if I'm putting this engine into an R32 Sedan, that I'll need to change my clutch master cylinder to the shorter R33 master cylinder to clear the new manifold?

Cheers for any help

 

 

 

 

 

Turbo Feed A.jpg

Turbo Feed A1.jpg

Spare Tee.jpg

IACV Piping.jpg

Edited by Chargrin
23 minutes ago, Chargrin said:

I just had a few questions on installing a "Freddy" manifold onto my S2 RB25DET which is completely factory otherwise.  

The appropriate response to your post is, why are you installing a forward facing plenum on a stock car?

There are plenty of cars running in excess of 300rwkw with a standard manifold. This exercise is pointless and a lot of work for basically no gain?

 

Edit: credit for the detailed and well-worded post.

Edited by inmaniac
  • Like 1

Yep definitely not expecting any gains from this I just wanted to tidy things up, make spark plugs more accessible etc on the engine while its still out of the car and on a cradle.  I'm swapping this into a RB30E powered r32 so I'll be adding a fmic, alloy radiator and fans so I want to plan out the best route to run the boost piping and where to hole-saw. I'm retaining the stock throttle body using an adapter so It'll be sitting even further forward.

Once I get her running and legal, then I can continue saving up to chase bigger numbers by doing hotside and injectors with it being ready to take topfeed injectors with this manifold.

Edited by Chargrin

Can confirm no power gains. And need to change clutch master. Also id advise getting the throttle body to suit rather than the adapter as if your keeping the battery in the stock position you need all the room you can get for the cold side pipe

  • Like 1

Thanks for the replies! Is the cold start pipe where I want to weld a port on to the intercooler pipe so that I can run a tube to that port coming from where I have labeled "C" on my picture of the AAC valve? 

Will the clutch master still be a problem even though I've installed the manifold with the engine out of the car? Ill start hunting down an R33 clutch master by the sounds of it. 

I was planning on relocating battery to the boot to give some flexibility on intercooler piping location and maybe have some room for a catch can or something like that. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...