Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, Got a Pulsar said:

Might be ok, but try the other things first (CRC and coil wrapping) and go from there.

Heaps of info in this site about all these things as they have all been covered many many times over, so have a mad search, read up on R&R, misfires, Fuel pump installs etc etc.

and go nuts!

I know I sure did. :yes:

Spent all day searching haha. How much of the coil do you wrap with electrical tape?

lol I spent years searching.  

Never wrapped them myself but I'd go from the bit that goes over the sparkplugs all the way up the shaft to the box!

hmmm... sounds quite suggestive when you say it like that. :D

11 hours ago, Got a Pulsar said:

lol I spent years searching.  

Never wrapped them myself but I'd go from the bit that goes over the sparkplugs all the way up the shaft to the box!

hmmm... sounds quite suggestive when you say it like that.

Haha alright, I'll let you know how I go later this arvo :)

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Sound's like R&R (rich and retard).

The stock ecu is seeing more air than it's used to so it tries to protect the engine by adding more fuel and retarding the timing. This would make sense since the problem started after you installed the fmic and raised the boost which would result in increased airflow.

 

This causes a loss of power and the misfiring feeling. You could try clean your AFM with some MAF cleaner and dropping the boost 1 or 2 psi, the problem should go away then.

 

Are you sure you are running only 10psi and not higher?

 

 

 

22 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Problem(s) could be from either the Superspark coils (which are rubbish, sorry to be blunt) or faulty OEM ones.

Best to get Splitfire ones or go Yaris conversion or LS conversion coils.

 

20 hours ago, Kinks said:

Sure, none of us want to spend extra money but if your coil packs are buggered or you spent $400 when you should have spent $600 then the only way out is to spend $600.  Not $500 or $400.  

Always buy Splitfires at minimum.  Do not try and go cheaper.  You will only end up opening your wallet again to buy what you should have bought the first time.

 

19 hours ago, admS15 said:

I wouldn't not doubt the coilpacks in that assumption. I'm not saying that it is your coils either but if they're weak it shows up when boost and power increases.

 

As above, if buying new coils stay away from the bright coloured ones unless they're the bluey purple ones, otherwise OEM or conversion.

 

I'm going to entertain the R and R theory.

 

 

 

15 hours ago, Got a Pulsar said:

No I would not as there's still too many variables. Start with the easy and cheap fixes and eliminate them first.

What pump did you put in? Did you feed it a new 12 Volt line via a relay or just use existing wiring?

Some after market pumps don't like old stock wiring.

Check the coils for cracking and wrap the whole long bit to eliminate any arcing if need be.

Update:

have cleaned afm, ran stock boost from inlet piping straight to actuator. Have tried both my sets of coil packs, new plugs. So it can't be rnr or spark related. Any other suggestions? Ignitor?

23 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Problem(s) could be from either the Superspark coils (which are rubbish, sorry to be blunt) or faulty OEM ones.

Best to get Splitfire ones or go Yaris conversion or LS conversion coils.

 LS conversion

  • Like 1

If Series 1 then yes it could be the igniter, could also be fuel pump related or could be faulty AFM or boost leak or vac leak since you've disturbed the piping.

Engine needs Air, Fuel and Spark soooo... keep at it.

1 minute ago, Got a Pulsar said:

If Series 1 then yes it could be the igniter, could also be fuel pump related or could be faulty AFM or boost leak or vac leak since you've disturbed the piping.

Engine needs Air, Fuel and Spark soooo... keep at it.

Ok I'll look into it

By the ecu thinking the air is going in to the engines and putting the fuel in to suit, only for the air to sneak out a leak and make the engine run rich, or even show enoigh airflow to go into rich and retard.

The ecu doesn't know if the air that goes through the maf makes it into the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...