Can you remove a stock rb25 turbo without jacking up the car?

[Griffin]

It says wet float bearing in the specs.

 

[sonicz]

7 hours ago, inmaniac said:

You're complicating this bro... Do you want it done or do you want it done right?

You want it done... So, from what I can see, the kink isn't too big of a drama. I would replace if possible. Secondly, no, the reducer on the intake won't noticeably harm your performance at wastegate boost pressure. As I replied above, get a reducer and a pipe so you can connect.

IIRC wastegate pressure for that turbo was between 10-12 PSI.

Just want it done.

I usually want things done right, if not I dont do them at all. However this is an unusual case since it was never planned.  So I just want it done, to a minimum viable product. but Viable is key here. I'm not gonna hook it up and run it if something is obviously wrong.

The doing it right ship has long sailed. If i wanted to do it "right" that I would have got a name brand turbo or a hi flow. So i dont need to be as good as it possibly can be, it just want to be "ok"

 

The kink is actually a lot worse than it looks from that angle. It blocks about 90% of the hose diamtre, leaving only a few mm of free space inside instead say 20mm.

My plan next time i go work on the car is to take the metal oil drain pipe of the turbo somehow while its still on the car and bend it to the right shape with some vice grips and persuasion. I hope this goes ok for me.

Ok I will order a reducer over ebay, should come in the mail by Wednesday, and I also need to find a 2inch steel pipe, about 10cm in length I would say..?

Its not like that on the previous setup. There is no hose connected to the turbo afaik.

Pmed.

1 hour ago, hy_rpm said:

You bought the line kit seperate from the turbo or using the factory lines?
I cant see a new ball bearing turbo going for $280 it will definatly be bush/journal bearing

 

What kit? I'm using the factory lines.

its not a ball bearing. Its definitely a journal one. See above I posted its specs. Still though, it CAME with the reducer installed deep down in the oil drain line. I'm assuming its because the seals are made of "cheese", Yeedogga.

Besides, all the youtubers I see running ebay turbos seem to run it with a oil restrictor.

Edited October 6, 2017 by sonicz

[hy_rpm]

Nah definately take out the oil restrictors im not sure if its in the banjo bolts or the oil feed pipe
If its in the bolts you just need to drill them out to 2-3mm
If you dont the turbo wont last very long and burnout the bearings
The oil drain is also badly kinked so wont be able to drain quick enough and it will blow smoke badly

[hy_rpm]

Why dont you just cut the oil drain metal pipe shorter so it the hose wont have to bend so sharp

[sonicz]

7 hours ago, hy_rpm said:

Why dont you just cut the oil drain metal pipe shorter so it the hose wont have to bend so sharp

Yea i was gonna try do that tommorow hopefully. I was thinking of bending it. You recomend cutting it and bending it or just bending it/cutting it?

Edited October 7, 2017 by sonicz

[sonicz]

Nevermind ill just shorten the pipe by about 7cm that way it wont even matter which way its facing.  F it probably never using the stock silver oil drain hose again anyway.

I now have all the parts i need the last thing left unanswered is whether i need the oil restrictor in the ebay turbo.?

I dont even recall the STOCK turbo having an oil restrictor and thats a Ball bearing turbo and you guys are saying BB needs oil restrictor and journal bearing doesnt so what gives?

Its literally the opposite now lol. Do you only need an oil restrictpr with thick aftermarket oil lines or even using the stock metal ones cos they are pretty thin and may be a restruction on their own?

[Yeedogga]

I think the stock oil feed has a restrictor in built in the banjo bolt.

I would suggest leaving the restrictor out if its a journal bearing turbo.

You also need to make sure the oil drain is done right for 2 reasons;

1. If it doesnt flow properly, you'll have too much oil pressure in the turbo cartridge and potentially blow oil past the seals.

2. If it leaks, its a great way to start an oil fire if it ends up spraying on hot exhaust parts. (Especially if the thing is running leaner than a marathon runner and everything is baking hot)

[sonicz]

3 hours ago, Yeedogga said:

I think the stock oil feed has a restrictor in built in the banjo bolt.

I would suggest leaving the restrictor out if its a journal bearing turbo.
 

Yea I think you are right. Keep in mind i did not know a single thing about this so learning for the first time. From memory the oil feed bolt had a hole about 2 to 3mm in diameter. So this is the stock setups way of using a restrictor.. I reused that bolt.

 

You say you recommend leaving the restrictor "out".

Im not trying to be an ass but this is confusing and i want to double check i understand you properly.

The new turbo had what looked like a restrictor already in place when it arrived. So i would be taking it out not leaving it it out. I have to assume Whoever made the turbo put it in for a reason so i just want to double check that you understand i did not fit a restrictor to the turbo myself.

Secondly as you also mention the stock bolt us itself a restrictor. So do you mean take that out too by drilling out hole?  How big? Its currently about 2 to 3mm from memory.

Now i dont know if the turbo is meant to be run with a restrictor with stock lines and stock bolt OR if they assumed you will be running some huge aftermarket lines and a bolt with a HuGE hole in it no restrictor and thats why they put a restrictor i? I have nfi about any of this and not sure if the suggestions here are taking all that into account. 

Should I unscrew the restrictor in the turbo AND drill out the stock oil line bolt that has a tiny hole in it?

Because otherwise i dont know how i would take all the restriction out if im using the stock bolt..

You also say if the restrictor is in place the pressure will be too high and blow past the seals, but i thought the whole point of the restictor was to reduce pressure and stop this from happeninf not increase it. But you say if i leave the restrictor in it will blow past the seals which is the exact opposite.

 I dont understand the process fully. Maybe if the restictor is in place BEFOre the turbo and then it opens up inside the turbo its easier in the seals which makes sense. 

 

I hope you see why im confused as to what to do with the oil line setup.

Edited October 7, 2017 by sonicz

[vxsr33]

Sonicz why don't you message the seller on ebay and ask them if you are supposed to run a restrictor or not?

[sonicz]

cos they are ussualy cluless and just resell some part a turbo dustributor out of china has sold to them in bulk. 

Tho its worth a shot. Will do.

 

[Griffin]

 

Mate why don't you buy the stock turbo for $250, fit that and sell what you have for hopefully $250 and consider it a lesson learnt to save any further heart ache. 

Some poor bugger will end up with a can of worms when the china turbo fails and will need all the stock bits you cut up.

[Yeedogga]

OP: Do some research and learn what purpose the restrictor actually serves. It will answer all of your questions.

This is a good start:
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_restrictor

[sonicz]

On 10/8/2017 at 10:13 AM, Yeedogga said:

OP: Do some research and learn what purpose the restrictor actually serves. It will answer all of your questions.

This is a good start:
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_restrictor

 

That doesn't answer anything definitely, it just confuses the matter. It basically says BB turbos need a restriction but journal ones dont. If I were to go by research I would need to remove the restrictors since my ebay turbo is a journal bearing. However the stock oil bolt which I am re using IS a restrictor, and nobody has told me what to use instead of that bolt. In addition to this, the turbo itself has a restrictor deep inside it. I conacted the seller of the turbo on the matter. Their words

"The turbo you order does not need an extra oil restrictor, their is a oil restrictor onside"

Literally the opposite. Research does jack all to help here, just need to flip a coin or take the easy way which is leaving it as it is with a restrictor in the turbo oil thread and the stock bolt.I dont think anyone knows whats is actually best in this case.

According to the article worst case scenario it just reduces the life of the turbo, instead of blowing oil which i do not want to deal with so decision is made.

On a update, I managed to fit the missing bolt to the turbo and cut the oil drain hose and file it off to fit over the bolt as can be seen in bottom right of pic. Hopefully goes on ok next time i go to see the car and try fit it back on.

keep in mind i am doing all this with the turbo attached to the car and all bolts +piping. Not easy. In fact incredible infuriating Gotta find a way to supersglue the gasket to the oil drain hose so it doesn't move around when fitting it. I hate gaskets without a insert for them.

 

Oh and taking the metal pipe of the blue oil drain hose was ridiculous. That hose even though it says 19mm feels WAYYYYY to snug for this application I hardly got it on but after days of sitting there I could have suspected my body-weight on the 2cm it was holding onto the metal oil with no clamp. FARKKKKK.

 

 

 

 

[Yeedogga]

How does the research not help?!

How does the turbo manufacturer's answer not help?!

Don't use a restrictor. Simple.

The turbo is obviously not designed to use the factory oil feed. For turbo longevity you need a new oil feed that doesnt have a restrictor.

But given your response to everyone else's advice thus far I think I'll leave you to it.

[sonicz]

4 hours ago, Yeedogga said:

1. How does the research not help?!

2.How does the turbo manufacturer's answer not help?!

3.Don't use a restrictor. Simple.

4The turbo is obviously not designed to use the factory oil feed. For turbo longevity you need a new oil feed that doesnt have a restrictor.

But given your response to everyone else's advice thus far I think I'll leave you to it.

1.Because the answer isn't conclusive. Its not black and white like will these wheels fit this stud pattern yes or no.. Ive even seen  lots of people on youtube run restrictors in their ebay turbos and they claim success and reliability for years. On the other hand people such as you and the article you posted say for journal turbos take out restrictions.

2. Because Manufacturer says to leave restrict or in. Therefore manufacturer says to run a restrictor. It came with one as I've stated many times.

3.But it really isn't. Ok I can take out the restrictor that is screwed into the turbo, looks like I need a flathead screwdriver and it will come out. But this is going against what the turbo came with from the Factory and this is against what they said when I asked them. Ok fair enough lets say I take it out. Furthermore, there is a restrictor in the stock oil banjo bolt.  Ok sure I can get a new oil feel and that leads me to point 4.

4. Heck Even the aftermarket oil feed lines seem to come with restrictors.

Even says for Journal bearng turbo.

 

Figure that?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Feed-Line-Nissan-RB20DET-RB25DET-SKYLINE-w-GREDDY-TD05H-TD06-18G-20G-/172643956510?hash=item283261b71e:g:CHcAAOSw9NxTsqh0

 

 

Edited October 9, 2017 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

Oh. For. f**k's. Sake.

No f**king restrictor.  No f**king kink in the drain hose.  Full flow oil pressure for journal bearing turbos.  Black. And. White.

Edited October 9, 2017 by GTSBoy

[hy_rpm]

Mate your too stubborn gotta learn the hard way when it blows up
just save the headache and take it to a professional you cleary dont know what your doing or want to listen
I told you at the start drill out the factory banjo
The restrictor that comes in the turbo leave it in and if it blows up just return it to them for warranty as thats what came with it
If you remove it will void warranty

[sonicz]

1 hour ago, hy_rpm said:

Mate your too stubborn gotta learn the hard way when it blows up
just save the headache and take it to a professional you cleary dont know what your doing or want to listen
I told you at the start drill out the factory banjo
The restrictor that comes in the turbo leave it in and if it blows up just return it to them for warranty as thats what came with it
If you remove it will void warranty

Ok this makes perfect sense to me. We agree im not taking out the internal restrictor that came with the turbo. Thats sorted.

So i just drill out the banjo bolt for the oil line thats at the top of the turbo to about 3mm. Sorted.

What about the banjo oil bolt thats connected to the engine block? 3mm as well? I beleive one of the bolts had a big hole already so i just need to drill out the small holed bolt on the turbo side from memory but correct me if im wrong.

Ive already fixed the oil drain hose kink by cutting the pipe.

f*ken easy as and clear when said that way. Not simply remove the restrictor. Thankyou.

Edited October 9, 2017 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

I wouldn't remove the restrictor on that turbo.  I would not fit the turbo to the car.

[sonicz]

Thanks for all the input. I have enough information now to finish it. Ill post again how it went once the car is up and running.

The instructions that came with the turbo that I did not even read up until now as it was in the box say "Do not remove the oil restrictor". It supports my decision to leave the restriction in. Whether its the right decision or not I'm not sure but it would be stupid to take out something which both the turbo instructions and seller says not to. If the turbo blow it blows and I will get a stock one. Cant return or sell the ebay one now anyway they are not worth anything "used" even though it has never been run.

 

 

Edited October 15, 2017 by sonicz