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Two faults with my v36

So I have two faults with my v36 manual coupe and wondering if this is a common thing. 

 

One is the clutch sticking to the floor on spirited take off's and the second is axle/driveline shudder or bounce with wheel spin on certain surfaces.

The worst of the two is the clutch that I'm pretty sure is a clutch slave cyclinder problem... Again!!

When I got the car I found that the clutch felt fine until on the occasions I did a spirited take off with some revs/throttle and "clutch control" (not riding ha ha) for a good take off. The clutch would stick half way to the floor until I either backed off or pulled the pedal back manually. I nursed the clutch from then as occasionally the clutch would slip when this happened. Absolutely no problem with the clutch on normal driving, nor full throttle when the clutch was fully out. Just couldn't give full throttle before the clutch was out. 

Anyway, so after they changed the clutch fluid, then the master cylinder it came down to the slave cylinder which fixed the problem. Scored a new stock clutch plate out of it as well as the master cylinder which didn't need replacing. 

Problem is it has now come back after less than 20k. I don't usually abuse the clutch however, with reviews matching on down shifts and usually low revs to take of so not riding the clutch. 

Thing is I have driven manual for most of my life and neither of my s15 had this problem with the last one close on 200kw at the wheels. 

Is the v36 slave cylinder really this weak or have I just had bad luck? My take off's aren't that abusive. Just the odd spirited take off I'd expect any performance car to be capable of on occasions.

The other problem is the shudder (feels like the old school axle tramp on a live axle car) I get occasionally on minor wheel spin with traction turned off. It doesn't always happen, and it can often happen on minor wheel spin on take off. I've had it in the wet multiple times as well. I've got some decent high performance tyres (pilot sport 4S) but this also happened on the re050a when they were rat sh!t grip near the end of their life. Could this be bush wear or something? I've got stick suspension except I have whiteline adjustable sway bars in it (although it did with the stock sway bars).

Edited by Pete_Repeat
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The clutch master and slave shouldn't care if you are at full throttle or at 1/10 throttle, it only has to release the clutch.  just taking a wild guess here but perhaps the twisting of the engine/transmission under a hard launch is causing the issue, have you had the flexible hose changed?  Otherwise, it could be a pressure plate or clutch fork issue.

As for the tramp/shudder, I would check rear suspension bushes.  Not sure about the V36, but the diff mounting bushes went bad after a while on the V35, so check these too.

I don't actually have a V36, so just giving some general suggestions.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, sonicii said:

The clutch master and slave shouldn't care if you are at full throttle or at 1/10 throttle, it only has to release the clutch.  just taking a wild guess here but perhaps the twisting of the engine/transmission under a hard launch is causing the issue, have you had the flexible hose changed?  Otherwise, it could be a pressure plate or clutch fork issue.

As for the tramp/shudder, I would check rear suspension bushes.  Not sure about the V36, but the diff mounting bushes went bad after a while on the V35, so check these too.

I don't actually have a V36, so just giving some general suggestions.

I hear you about the clutch. But it feels just like the first time where replacing the slave cylinder seemed to fix it for some time now. No problems with the original clutch plate then, just that I think they couldn't get the slave cylinder without the clutch plate included supposedly.... 

Flexible hose? Is that between the master and slave?

So diff bushes hey. I'll have a look at them. It does feel a little like it's something hitting the body so this makes sense. I recently got an alignment done and asked them to look at bushes but they wouldn't have checked the diff ones for an alignment 

Edited by Pete_Repeat
2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

That type of behaviour is typical of factory clutches from many manufacturers.

Call a decent clutch place and discuss with them.

Oh right. I must have got lucky until now.. 

Might need to nurse this clutch for a bit until I feel I've warn it enough to justify getting rid of it or the slave gets worse, as I'm  not keen to replace an almost new clutch just yet.. I've changed clutches before but I'd likely pay someone next time and that won't come cheap I'm sure.

  • 4 months later...

It's the CSC. When it heats up it fails. I've had my clutch to the floor on a couple of occasions and luckily after it cools down it pops back up. There are upgrades available im sure through CZP or an elimination kit through Z1 motorsports.

Just remember when you replace it, you will "need" to buy a new Master Cylidner and replace it with it.

You will need to upgrade it or eliminate it.

 

22 minutes ago, Mclarenmercman said:

It's the CSC. When it heats up it fails. I've had my clutch to the floor on a couple of occasions and luckily after it cools down it pops back up. There are upgrades available im sure through CZP or an elimination kit through Z1 motorsports.

Just remember when you replace it, you will "need" to buy a new Master Cylidner and replace it with it.

You will need to upgrade it or eliminate it.

 

Thanks for the reassuring. 

I'll look into them when it gets worse again, or I need a clutch change.. Clutch has probably only done 20k so far I think, so hard to pull it out just yet.

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