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RB26 rebuild, what to change?

drunken0elf
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drunken0elf Collaborator

drunken0elf

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RB26 rebuild, what to change?

Hello all. I've searched on said topic quite extensively and haven't really found any definitive answers so I'm just going to make a list of parts and hopefully you guys can tell me what I'm missing or what is not necessary. 

I'm more looking towards an engine freshen up rather then a complete rebuild so keep that in mind, but I'm preparing for the worst, as my engine is most likely going to be pulled out for an oil pump change so I might as well take advantage of that.

*Engine is going to be running stock turbos and 13PSI  and won't see any drag or track. Engine currently has like 127500km or something close*

here's the list I made. I have no clue if some are only for complete rebuilds or also apply to freshen ups. I'm not really a wrench tbh.

1) N1 Oil pump

2) N1 Waterpump

3) Nissan gasket kit 

4) OEM Timing belt + pulley kit

5) ARP Rod bolts

6) ARP head stud kit (is this needed?)

7) ACL main bearings + rod bearings

8) Tomei gasket kit (seems overkill no?)

9) Eagle h-beam rods (some places recommend changing them, others no..., I don't know)

 

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

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If you are not changing the pistons no point in changing the rods, Get the head crack tested valves reseated etc.Stock OEM gaskets should be fine - how much more are the Tomei set? The Tomei metal head gasket can be re-used if you have to pull the head off again for any reason. You haven't listed rings... as with luck (measure to check) you can keep the pistons if they are not damaged and bores are within spec.

r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

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Don't use an n1 pump either get a nitto or a tomei one

dont use the n1 water pump just use a new factory one

as kiwi said if you're not changing the pistons don't worry about the rods 

new head bolts are a must cause the factory are single use only 

breaker1845 Community Regular

breaker1845

Posted
Posted (edited)

With the above comments. What's the reason behind pulling it out? Is the oil pump actually stuffed or you considering doing the oil pump mod with the short nose crank in the r32 block?

You can get away with it fairly cheap if you are only intending to run the stock turbos. However you could get a 2nd set of steel internals probably cheap for reliability. The stock ones are pretty garabage and become a hazard anyway running on 13 psi so I would consider checking those at least for shaft play if they come off.

Edited by breaker1845
drunken0elf Collaborator

drunken0elf

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3 hours ago, WantGTR said:

What is the reason you are rebuilding?

The oil pump takes a good 45seconds to start working properly, so not a good sign. Either cracked or failing.

Would be a good idea to check if anything got damaged by the possible lack of oil and would take advantage of that to replace what needs replacing to make it more reliable/less prone to futur failures.

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Don't use an n1 pump either get a nitto or a tomei one

dont use the n1 water pump just use a new factory one

as kiwi said if you're not changing the pistons don't worry about the rods 

new head bolts are a must cause the factory are single use only 

N1 seems to be fine for what I'm aiming for. But I'm open to other alternatives, I'd rather not spend 2k on a oil pump tbh.

as a new eater pump, I though the n1 was factory spec. Mind sending me a link to one?

ok so if pistons are all good, no need to buy any rods, so no need for the h-beams rods?

Thanks for the replies. Monday I'm going to call places that are pretty good with rb26s and ask what they think would be a good course of action for my engine and report back here.

r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

The n1 pumps have a habit of breaking and could leave you right back where you started in the future 

the n1 water pump isn't the factory spec and has less fins on the impeller and under normal driving conditions can create over heating issues 

the factory rods are good for over 550hp at the wheels and I would be buying new pistons before I bought rods

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drunken0elf Collaborator

drunken0elf

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7 hours ago, r32-25t said:

The n1 pumps have a habit of breaking and could leave you right back where you started in the future 

the n1 water pump isn't the factory spec and has less fins on the impeller and under normal driving conditions can create over heating issues 

the factory rods are good for over 550hp at the wheels and I would be buying new pistons before I bought rods

Would nismo oil be a good one?

Old man 32 GTR Proficient

Old man 32 GTR

Posted
Posted

Just get standard oil pump and fit it with billet gears and make sure you fit a crank collar (unless you have a long nose crank) this will ensure you don't have any future issues with the oil pump and if you choose to push it a little harder down the track you can. I would at least go metal head gasket and head studs for the same reason. As stated earlier the standard pistons and rods can hold a fair amount of power. I would also at a minimum put a sump baffle in.

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drunken0elf Collaborator

drunken0elf

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Ok so I revised my list. Tell me if I'm getting stuff confused.

1) N1 Oil pump (Nismo or OEM w\ gears)

2) N1 Waterpump (OEM)

3) Nissan gasket kit 

4) OEM Timing belt + pulley kit

5) ARP Rod bolts

6) ARP head stud kit 

7) ACL main bearings + rod bearings

8) Tomei gasket kit

9) Eagle h-beam rods (No need since stock is fine for my type of power)

*NEW* 9) Sump baffle kit 

*NEW* 10) Extended crank collar (nitto)

 

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted
49 minutes ago, drunken0elf said:

8) Tomei gasket kit

Is this a metal head gasket? If not, what gasket kit is it, and why do you need this as well as the "Nissan Gasket Kit"?

I wouldn't bother with the RP Rod Bolts at the power level you are after either.

drunken0elf Collaborator

drunken0elf

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3 hours ago, GeeDog said:

Is this a metal head gasket? If not, what gasket kit is it, and why do you need this as well as the "Nissan Gasket Kit"?

I wouldn't bother with the RP Rod Bolts at the power level you are after either.

Tomei is a metal gasket kit. I don't think it's really necessary, but i'm keeping it as an option.

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