New to Skylines, Need Assistance

[AusFreak]

New to Skylines, Need Assistance

Hello,

I have an R33 purchased a few days ago and I have some questions.

1. Where is the best place to check my VIN number (im currently overseas) everyplace I look up says its not enough numbers or doesnt exist
2. Which coilovers do you recommend? RB250DET

Thanks

[oweban]

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c5/69/67/c569672602a4b1b5d55add9d69bb1ad0.png

 

^ VIN is located where the blue plate is there. Depends on what 33 you got, but should start with ECR33, HR33, ER33 - that kind of thing. The compliance sticker will have import info too, eg mine is 69U000ECR33xxxxxx.

 

Coilovers - wayyyyyy too many options. Everyone will have their own opinion; I'm running the basic BC Racing ones from justjap and am pretty happy with them.

 

[AusFreak]

Hi oweban,

Sorry I meant to say spark leads not coilovers (way too much stuff to think of). So if someone can point me in the direction of the highly regarded spark leads that would be cool.(does it have leads or just coils)

The car is overheating like crazy so ive ordered a water pump and a Mishimoto radiator - see what happens.

Im going to change the clutch probably in the next few months maybe and found one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQDZ56Q/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I218HV057JMA9I&colid=3HL26GHBXRMTF

Wanting to change throttle body:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014F6FDPG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3SGQSTQLMKX3Y&colid=3HL26GHBXRMTF

and maybe one day the turbo:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVUAH6C/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I183AUTX0BF7R&colid=3HL26GHBXRMTF

Remapping the ECU will be a pain in the bum here as no one has the technology nor seen cars like this here so im gonna have to do it myself without a dyno [sigh] 

Winter is coming soon so deciding on what to do first before the snow.

What do you think of those options?

 

I found some stuff about my car.

ECR33-060247

GGKBRTFR33VZA-U---

GTS25t Type M (Series 1.5)

1995-07

QM1 White

(1G) 2 Door Coupe; (2GK + 11V) RB25DET; (4B) 2WD HICAS; (7F) 5 Speed Manual; (12Z) Cold Weather Package; (15U) Large Rear Spoiler + Aero Form Bumper + Rear Wiper (Aero Selection)

[oweban]

Oh coilpacks!

If you're not chasing tons of power, check out splitfire or yellow jacket coilpacks. The leads from the igniter itself should be fine. For splitfires, dis-005

http://justjap.com/splitfire-direct-ignition-coil-packs-sf-dis-005.html

Water pump and mishimoto radiator is a good idea, I just bought a mishimoto myself

Enjoy the car stock for a while and then look into the upgrades

[AusFreak]

1 hour ago, oweban said:

Enjoy the car stock for a while and then look into the upgrades

That's exactly what I want to do  

I was looking at these two
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHSL876/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3FTIL7N78P2WQ&colid=3HL26GHBXRMTF
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHOG08I/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1ON638HRW1HKS&colid=3HL26GHBXRMTF

I haven't looked under the rocketcover yet so am not sure, do they use leads on these engines?

[oweban]

Hmm - I can't vouch for either of those brands, might need to research them a bit.

Apparently s1.5 uses the same pack as s2.

The leads is a loom that goes from the igniter to the packs - without the cover it looks kinda like this:

http://s148.photobucket.com/user/dansVspec/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131231_200614_zps1cba334f.jpg.html

[inmaniac]

Hi OP.

My build threads (and many other threads) are testament to buying quality parts with a history of reliability. Therefore you should steer clear of those unknown brands and go with either Splitfires or genuine coilpacks, especially if you're chasing more power in the future. As they say, do it right the first time or do it twice (once when you cheap out, the second time when the cheap stuff fails). Trust me, I've been there.... Are you even sure you need to replace them? OEM will be better than Amazon/ebay specials...

Looking at your list of links, you're going for cheap everything... Some people have made that work, however, the vast majority have problems at every turn.

Please, for your own sake, do your research before dropping your money on (no offence) sh1t products that you're just going to have to replace anyway.

[inmaniac]

If you CBF doing your research, just do this:

"Stage 1" - Basics

• Turbo-Back exhaust - If you don't have one already, you can get one custom made in mild steel or get one off the shelf for around $800-$1200 for something decent.
• Intake - Debatable that you need this, a good panel filter will get you out of trouble, but if you're chasing power later replace your intake for a solid item. $250.
• Intercooler - HDI is the cheapest you should go, even then you might want to consider better. $600.
• Boost controller - A decent electronic unit. GFB G-Force II can be had for $300.

"Stage 2" - Can be done without ECU/Tune (not always best)

• Fuel Pump - Either go a Walbro 255 or 450 drop-in pump. I suggest the 450 to give you some room (I wish I did this ergh). Don't forget relay mod. $200-$250,
• Turbo - Lots of choices, most suggest a Hypergear high flow for a drop-in replacement. That's around $1000. Or get their ATR replacement turbo for $1200. Keep boost < 10psi at this stage with these turbos.

"Stage 3" - ECU and Tune needed

• ECU - Nistune is a cost-effective solution. Get yourself an RB20DET Manual ECU, get yourself a Nistune board with feature pack, go get it tuned. Guessing $1000-$1200 all up.
• Injectors - Nismo 740s are a good drop-in replacement, but most would suggest going a top-feed setup for cheaper parts and more choices. Both are $1000-$1200.
• AFM - Get a genuine Z32 AFM. There are other choices but this is tried and true. $300ish.
• Splitfires - Not always needed but generally recommended at this level. $500.

"Stage 3.5" - E85

• As part of "Stage 3" mods. get an ethanol flex sensor and tune everything for E85. $290 for sensor and harness.

 

If you did all of this it would cost you around $6-7k or $4-5k if you already have the basics and will net you 250rwkw on P98 or 300rwkw on E85. Nowhere was a throttle body mentioned (because you don't need one). This is a good list to go by, but keep in mind other things you may need along the way. A good example is a fuel pressure reg, that might be needed by Stage 3.

Do not attempt any of this unless your car is in tip-top shape and is well serviced.

Although not gospel. this list is proven time and time again. Follow it for proven results with less headache (and heartache) in the future.

[AusFreak]

Hi inmaniac

I am going cheap because im overseas and income is not up to scratch with skyline parts  I was building up my BMW 3 series which was cheap compared to skylines

The previous owner has changed the muffler and apparently de-catted but i'll have to look for myself. He has also put in an aftermarket intercooler and blow off valve. He also had the steering changed from right to left and it has a little bit of play in it and the gearbox mounts i think are gone too (sometimes it shudders). The clutch makes a noise when in idle and not holding the clutch down.

I bought a manual boost controller and a boost gauge from amazon - should arrive next week

Are you able to get me a link to the relay mod and the ecu? Thanks

The intake has also been changed but its so fkn dirty i need to get a new one asap so ive got to go measure the MAF to figure out what size to get.
everything else seems okay  and will look at your list of recommendations and go by them as soon as i have some spare change

Edited September 10, 2017 by AusFreak

[inmaniac]

2 hours ago, AusFreak said:

I am going cheap because im overseas and income is not up to scratch with skyline parts

Well good luck! Don't come crying here when your $2 parts break  Skyline ownership comes with some inherent costs but hey like I said, some people have made the cheap stuff work, hope you're one of them!

2 hours ago, AusFreak said:

the steering changed from right to left and it has a little bit of play in it and the gearbox mounts i think are gone too (sometimes it shudders). The clutch makes a noise when in idle and not holding the clutch down.

I bought a manual boost controller and a boost gauge from amazon - should arrive next week

Are you able to get me a link to the relay mod and the ecu? Thanks

Don't up the boost with these issues you have. Your car should be mechanically sound before thinking about any mods (including upping boost).

As for links, use the search bar on the website, top-right. I ain't doing your work for you bud! You'll find everything by a quick search.  I'm just here to give some advice from experience...

[oweban]

Relay mod effectively just gives the fuel pump full voltage from the battery but only when something else is on - I used the + line on fuel gauge sender as trigger. Cost me about $15AUD in parts and half an hour of sketching it up

[inmaniac]

32 minutes ago, oweban said:

Relay mod effectively just gives the fuel pump full voltage from the battery but only when something else is on - I used the + line on fuel gauge sender as trigger. Cost me about $15AUD in parts and half an hour of sketching it up

I don't wanna spam this guy's thread but my understanding has always been that you want the trigger for the fuel pump relay to come from the FPCM - that way in any event where the fuel pump would normally shut off it still will?

Taken from the OG fuel pump rewire thread:

the wire that has come from the ecu to fuel pump is now the trigger wire for the relay when you do this, which means if you did have an accident and the ecu wants to turn off the fuel pump it still can cause i will just trigger off the relay which will stop the connectivity from the battery to the fuel pump. so pump will be off.

Edited September 10, 2017 by inmaniac

[oweban]

Ah - okay, maybe I should have read that. I just kinda went "f**k it" on it. Not a bad idea. Will change the pos next time I'm at the car.

[Dthquazi]

On 9/9/2017 at 6:21 PM, inmaniac said:

If you CBF doing your research, just do this:

"Stage 1" - Basics

• Turbo-Back exhaust - If you don't have one already, you can get one custom made in mild steel or get one off the shelf for around $800-$1200 for something decent.
• Intake - Debatable that you need this, a good panel filter will get you out of trouble, but if you're chasing power later replace your intake for a solid item. $250.
• Intercooler - HDI is the cheapest you should go, even then you might want to consider better. $600.
• Boost controller - A decent electronic unit. GFB G-Force II can be had for $300.

"Stage 2" - Can be done without ECU/Tune (not always best)

• Fuel Pump - Either go a Walbro 255 or 450 drop-in pump. I suggest the 450 to give you some room (I wish I did this ergh). Don't forget relay mod. $200-$250,
• Turbo - Lots of choices, most suggest a Hypergear high flow for a drop-in replacement. That's around $1000. Or get their ATR replacement turbo for $1200. Keep boost < 10psi at this stage with these turbos.

"Stage 3" - ECU and Tune needed

• ECU - Nistune is a cost-effective solution. Get yourself an RB20DET Manual ECU, get yourself a Nistune board with feature pack, go get it tuned. Guessing $1000-$1200 all up.
• Injectors - Nismo 740s are a good drop-in replacement, but most would suggest going a top-feed setup for cheaper parts and more choices. Both are $1000-$1200.
• AFM - Get a genuine Z32 AFM. There are other choices but this is tried and true. $300ish.
• Splitfires - Not always needed but generally recommended at this level. $500.

"Stage 3.5" - E85

• As part of "Stage 3" mods. get an ethanol flex sensor and tune everything for E85. $290 for sensor and harness.

 

If you did all of this it would cost you around $6-7k or $4-5k if you already have the basics and will net you 250rwkw on P98 or 300rwkw on E85. Nowhere was a throttle body mentioned (because you don't need one). This is a good list to go by, but keep in mind other things you may need along the way. A good example is a fuel pressure reg, that might be needed by Stage 3.

Do not attempt any of this unless your car is in tip-top shape and is well serviced.

Although not gospel. this list is proven time and time again. Follow it for proven results with less headache (and heartache) in the future.

Great post. 

Edited September 11, 2017 by Dthquazi

[oweban]

If you've got a gtst, one turbo; if a gtr, two, unless you swap back to a single setup.

If you want to run more than 1bar you'll definitely need non-stock turbo, and then ECU, fuel pump, injector upgrades too (depends how far you want to go though).

[KiwiRS4T]

How many km has your car done? If you are going to change the water pump you should change the cambelt and idlers at the same time as it is very labour intensive. if you are short of cash think carefully before you waste money on unnecessary parts. Get your car running right before you start increasing the power. Take your coil packs off and give them a very good clean and wrap them in insulating tape. If your coils are stuffed buy only OEM or Splitfires - nothing else.  Fit new plugs if necessary. Do NOT buy that throttle body. Your stock one is good for over 500KW and you are light years away from that.

[AusFreak]

Thanks for the info KiwiRS4T.

The car every day has some new minor issue which is sad   Things like the oil light came on today then went off after a few minutes. I checked the oil everything was ok as I had just changed it too a few days ago. The speedo stopped working today too but reading the forums people would press the 0ing button and it would work again. When at the lights in traffic and i move slowley then clutch in and brake the idle goes from 500 to nearly 0 and sometimes stalls. Turning on the car now the starter makes that awful noise like its still trying to start for a split second.

I have some work to do [sigh]

Its done 84,000 KM and the pump should be replaced at around 100,000 and since its heating up and i got the new radiator coming, thought i would do that. 

Going to change the sparks hopefully tomorrow with 6x PFR6G-11 and during that time i'll see whats going on.

 

[oweban]

Idling issues - AAC valve usually, or a vacuum leak.

 

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

 

And yep, 22 year old cars will do that - be a pain in the arse forever [emoji4]

 

Also clean the airflow meter, make sure it's not covered in gunk:

 

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18037-how-to-clean-your-afm/

[inmaniac]

6 hours ago, AusFreak said:

Thanks for the info KiwiRS4T.

The car every day has some new minor issue which is sad   Things like the oil light came on today then went off after a few minutes. I checked the oil everything was ok as I had just changed it too a few days ago. The speedo stopped working today too but reading the forums people would press the 0ing button and it would work again. When at the lights in traffic and i move slowley then clutch in and brake the idle goes from 500 to nearly 0 and sometimes stalls. Turning on the car now the starter makes that awful noise like its still trying to start for a split second.

I have some work to do [sigh]

Its done 84,000 KM and the pump should be replaced at around 100,000 and since its heating up and i got the new radiator coming, thought i would do that. 

Going to change the sparks hopefully tomorrow with 6x PFR6G-11 and during that time i'll see whats going on.

 

For plugs put in NGK BCPR6ES (whichever gap you get, gap to 0.8mm)

For the oil light, could just be a sensor.

For your stall, check AAC valve as mentioned. Also check lines near the brake booster for leaks.

Highly doubt you've got genuine kms on that car. I'm at 235,000 and don't have any of those kinds of issues (could have just had different lives). I would definitely be doing a major service at this stage for a car with symptoms you're describing. Also, as mentioned, you want your car perfect before modding. Water pump, belts, do the works.

[AusFreak]

Thanks for the information about cleaning the AAC. I cleaned it today and it seems to be running better, sitting on about 800 RPM rather than 500