Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No air coming through induction 96 stagea

Hey guys I don't know if my account is the same as the one I introduced myself on cause I think it logged in through Facebook... anyway wondering if anyone can help shed some light. 

I don't know much about cars and by much I mean f all really. 

But my Stagea (96 RS) isn't sucking air through the intake. Upon having a look I see the sensor thing in/on there. It looked fine, I checked the connection and it was clean. 

I don't even want to drive it to the mechanics cause when i was driving it and it started to happen it didn't feel good and no air is not good. 

I searched on here and saw about air mass sensor? Is this it? Broken? 

 

Thanks and here is a pic of her 

 

IMG_1669.JPG

Trace the piping from the throttle body/intake manifold all the way along the intercooler piping and see if a hose has come loose or split. It would be making noise somewhere along that sucking in air from before the air filter.

Without air it won't run. At idle it won't suck much air - have you tried winding the throttle up? If its not coming in the front intake its coming in somewhere else so just check all the way back to the turbo intake.

hey guys sorry I haven't replied it turned out to be the turbo. So now I need a new one. Anyone got or know whom may have one? Also if going to buy a new turbo... which ones would you guys recommend? I don't have a lot of cash ATM. Seen some on eBay etc but a bit unsure 

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
    • And, given that you're in NC, go buy an LS7 or something equally sweet and piss that crappy old RB off. Or call up Wesley Kagan and get his help putting a Merc V12 into it.
    • Do a compression test, and a bore scope on the cylinder that lost parts of the plug. Chances are, that cylinder isn't so happy anymore...
×
×
  • Create New...