Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Concrete floor coating

Hey all,

Moving into a new place in a week or two and it has an extremely clean concrete garage floor. I have a very good ability to make a huge mess whenever i work on cars and this time around i would like to try and seal the floor so any dropped oils etc dont stain the floor like they have in my current house. Has anyone ever done this before? There seems to be so many products out there so just looking for some first hand experience.

Another thing to note is that this house is a rental and i will only be in it for about 18 months before relocating again, so not looking to do the full professional epoxy coating (although that would be the best solution)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472046-concrete-floor-coating/
Share on other sites

You'd need to get permission from the realestate to do it.
I work at a concrete formwork company. There is a clear sealer you can checkout that is oil repellant but it costs a mint that might help, check the tds. Colortec Max /Colorfresh Intensive but its expensive approx $2-300 ex gst. for 5litres. If its a rental you'd proably want something on top of it also cause the realestates love taking rentals to the cleaners at the end of leases.
We just got brunted with dealing with having to clean a place that had a condition report 10+ years old! Theyre ruthless. So make sure you get permission if your gonna paint anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
×
×
  • Create New...