Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI SAUers,

I have an R33 with a GT3076R on stock manifold with external gate welded to the exhaust housing.

It was worked well but I am now upgrading the manifold to a high mount 6boost because my studs/nuts keep coming loose and I've had enough.

I need to buy a new rear housing when I upgrade manifolds because the way the gate is welded to the current one means it wont fit.

I have found a fair priced used 6boost manifold but it is a T4 twin entry (not twin scroll as it has only one gate provision?)

QUESTION:

Can I buy a T4 flanged rear housing that will fit the GT3076 in .82?

Will it give me any benefit over the T3 flanged housing?

Should I just buy a brand new T3 flanged 6Boost and get a T3 flanged housing.

 

Thanks all

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472194-t4-exhaust-housing-for-gt3076r-56t/
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Yeedogga said:

 

Should I just buy a brand new T3 flanged 6Boost and get a T3 flanged housing.

 

If you're completely satisfied with the GT3076 (and there's still a lot to like about that turbo on a RB25), then stay T3 high mount and be happy. 

Bear in mind there's a fair bit of fab work to get the piping right and even the gate in correct position.  So it'd be good if future turbo changes allow for direct bolt in spec changes (eg move to a GT35 or something within reason).

I'd suggest you do the homework on alternative brands in the same price or performance range too.  You "might" move away from the Honeywell gear given what the cost of a bare housing is and the funds you could recoup on sale of existing gear.

Besides the higher priced options (EFR, PTE), you'd be mad not to look at BW S256/257, Masterpower/Borghetti MPR54/59, and the Kinugawa range.  There are T4 options amongst those, and the dimensions of a T4 hole may allow for a nicer transition in the collector area of a high mount. 

I don't think T3 single vs T4 single will make much difference to overall performance given your current turbo is going to top out around the 300rwkW mark.  A proper split pulse setup probably will make a difference, at a cost.  

Bottom line for me, you've got to price up the alternative setups and gauge what's most attractive and within your budget.  They are all going to perform differently but no dogs there.  

Garrett preferred? - T3 single scroll, single gate.  Easy move to a GTX3071 or GTX3576 in future.  Don't look back.

Bigger budget? - T4 split pulse, EFR 7670 IW. 

Bigger again? - T4 split pulse, EFR or PTE twin external gates.

Smaller budget? - T4 split pulse, BW S257SXE twin external gates

Smaller again and open mind? - T4 single scroll, BW S257SXE or Masterpower MPR545, single gate.  

Smallest budget, still open minded? T3 single scroll, Kinugawa TDO6-25G, single gate.

  • Like 2

Thanks heaps for taking the time to reply Dale- i very much appreciate it.

I decided to keep the 3076 as it meets my needs for now.

I have ordered a brand new 6boost with a single entry T3/ ext gate and got a new T3 / V band rear housing to go with it.

I'm interested to see if it increases power/response but will be happy with just an increase in reliability and decrease in likelihood of turbo falling off the manifold!!

Cheers!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...