Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought he just stripped them to sell for kebabs and kept the spicey shit for himself to build ironic LeMons cars?

 

Have you used the oil cap breather before fatz?

Looked like a good stop gap measure.

14 minutes ago, Darmanin10 said:

Going off topic here but you obviously track your gtr's unlike most owners.

What brakes are going on this thing? 

Simple setup

r35 front with dba rotors and winmax pads 380mm

rear are 6 piston brembo on a Hemi 300c 350mm dba rotor Winmax pads 

and having played brakes on a lot of gtr I went with a PE engineering full pedal box with adjustability

 

14 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

I thought he just stripped them to sell for kebabs and kept the spicey shit for himself to build ironic LeMons cars?

 

Have you used the oil cap breather before fatz?

Looked like a good stop gap measure.

Yea had it on my last r33 did 6 years of track days (10-20 a year)

keep the oil cap connection open and put a one way valve on your catch can drain back

but I also run a external catch can scavenge pump (weldon external dry sump pump) which sucks the can dry over 6k rpm( this is just for extra f**k you oil control) 

 

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, fatz said:

Yea had it on my last r33 did 6 years of track days (10-20 a year)

keep the oil cap connection open and put a one way valve on your catch can drain back

but I also run a external catch can scavenge pump (weldon external dry sump pump) which sucks the can dry over 6k rpm( this is just for extra f**k you oil control) 

 

I've been looking at dry sump for my new motor  but with what I've learned froim tracking my old one and just general research I reckon I can setup a decent enough wet sump for little $$ My current setup is a mess of hoses but worked ,all rocker vents and sump into baffled, vented can with a sump drain. New motor shouldn't breath as heavy, will have bigger sump with some breather ports welded on etc. 

Got pics of this external scavenge setup? Belt driven or elec.

17 hours ago, fatz said:

Yea had it on my last r33 did 6 years of track days (10-20 a year)

keep the oil cap connection open and put a one way valve on your catch can drain back

but I also run a external catch can scavenge pump (weldon external dry sump pump) which sucks the can dry over 6k rpm( this is just for extra f**k you oil control) 

 

So much RB wisdom in one post.

Edited by JGTC
On 5/21/2020 at 6:41 PM, fatz said:

Gtrs are for discussing whos oem parts are the cleanest now 

Hey I take offence at that! Oh no wait... totally me... (only cause i can normally win!)  ?

Seeing a bit of back and forth/pissing contest between 2 of my local car club guys, 280rwkw silvia and over 500awkw GT-R, both running the same times at winton (silvia now fractionally faster, both in the 1m27s bracket) both on the same slicks.

GT-R guy reckons he needs bulk coin to go any faster, Silvia guy just lunched his LS and is going to actually build one for something more than 280rwkw and reckons there's more lap time to be had easily.

I love GT-Rs, but are they really a good track platform? Heart says yes, brain says no :(

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...