Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 RB25DET engine won't start ECU fault found ECCS clicking

Kustom20

By Kustom20,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kustom20 Collaborator

Kustom20

Posted
Posted

Hi Peeps,

just thought to post this up, even if it comes in handy one day for someone with the same fault. As we know SAU is a great community for anything Skyline related

I wont go into full detail, just a basic overview - I recently completed mods to my R33 and got the vehicle tuned. After a long 2 1/2 years in prep and paint and taking the vehicle off the road. I had to remove all mods for RWC - the last 2 days I removed exhaust side and Intake side basically everything to change back to stock.

After fitting everything up and double checking to ensure I had covered all bases, checked earth connections, sensor plugs. Was time to fit the stock ECU and turn the key.

On the initial first cranking it did not start within 5 or so seconds, tried again, nothing at all. Was safe to assume something isn't working. After I turned the key to the off position I noticed a relay located next to the ECU kept clicking. ECCS relay - I thought it may have had something to do with the AFM wiring so I double checked it, only because one mod is the upgraded AFM - then tested the AFM wiring with Multi meter seems to have correct readings. And when I unplugged the AFM the ECCS relay stopped clicking. 

Also because I had changed to a S1 inlet manifold - I thought to also swap out the TPS with my S2 item. I then turned the key to on but not start and the ECCS was still clicking when the key was turned off. At this stage, I ran a quick ECU fault code diagnostic check - results were code 55 - no faults recorded. I installed the Apexi PFC back into the vehicle and got Co-Pilot running to set the TPS to the correct setting. And also check the sensor readings - everything seemed to be correct, except the TPS which was on 9.

Last thing was to open the Stock ECU housing - seen as it was sitting for 7 years to inspect inside for potential corrosion. And there it was as clear as day. Capacitor corroded. Also ran a quick test with the multimeter and found the number 2 was showing zero reading and all others were in the 460 to 470 range. Even though number 1 shows a reading but also corrosion I would be replacing this as well.

After finding this - i uploaded a base map back into the Apexi and car fired up straight away. Its kind of constipated going from 360kw back to stock ;)

IMG_2228.thumb.JPG.dba0e11860f3e06962f854b999606e61.JPG

IMG_2229.thumb.JPG.c0a8f41ca77bcbf5add99ef977ecd3b6.JPG

IMG_2230.JPG.ab932e0e02ee43068a014af50de6ab97.JPG

IMG_2231.JPG.69511c0330b8e8fda43752dee62cc709.JPG

IMG_2232.JPG.f49bd82939a10e00f4dd21178cd9252a.JPG

If it helps just one person in the future then its all well worth the very small effort.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Import insurance in 2025

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Maybe I also should have wrote that a bit better lol. I did come 8th last in English at school during the HSC, ironically spent 2 decades reading/writing specifications and contracts in IT 😂
    • joshuaho96
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but that's in-cylinder, there's the interaction between that and the TWC which complicates things. Pulling out timing to reduce NOx is a strategy I saw in transitional emissions vehicles like stuff from 1974 or so. The two inlet runner system is interesting but I'm not sure it makes a huge difference as far as emissions goes, is it a tumble valve? I've seen stuff like that even in cars from the late 80s. 
    • romel
      Swapped rb25de neo how to get the gear indication on the dash to work

      By romel · Posted

      Hello all,   so i recently swapped out my rb20de neo with an rb25de neo( engine,transmission, wiring and the diff everything) but i just cant get the gear indication light on the dash to work when i switch to tiptronic mode. Note there is a steering wheel switch beside the shifter and i dont have that. I did notice yesterday while switching to tiptronic that the indicator on the dash started to work but it didn't afterwards. Does anyone know how this actually works? Or do i still need that steering wheel switch to be connected and on for that gear indicator to work?
    • GTSBoy
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hence why I said earlier that I don't think the turbo Neos ever would have actually qualified as an LEV. I suspect the only actual LEVs that came out of Nissan were the NA Neos. Still call them all Neos. They all stil have the Neo-ness. Just that they don't all qualify as as LEVs.
    • sucram
      Rb26- Enlarging Std Throttle Bodies

      By sucram · Posted

      It will give gains, but you wont hit 600 It will give gains but it wont get you to 600 imo. You will also sacrifice low down and you will be adding extra volume if you port match it, more so if you port the plenum runners depending and how its done I think the only time youre going to see about 100hp gains is if the car is making well over 1k kw I do have a spare set that I was going to test with, but i dont actually think there is anything worth getting going larger. I did a fair few S14/S15 and the standard TB is fairly small, I went to 60 and in some cases 64mm which is significant over the stock unit. You can also get some weird ratio changes. I think 20kw will be a stretch on a roller dyno. If I had it apart I might mill the shafts a little and not expect much, I think the stock size is still pretty good for a street/track car even with larger capacity. I might change diameter it if its a drag only car
×
×
  • Create New...