Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Peeps,

just thought to post this up, even if it comes in handy one day for someone with the same fault. As we know SAU is a great community for anything Skyline related

I wont go into full detail, just a basic overview - I recently completed mods to my R33 and got the vehicle tuned. After a long 2 1/2 years in prep and paint and taking the vehicle off the road. I had to remove all mods for RWC - the last 2 days I removed exhaust side and Intake side basically everything to change back to stock.

After fitting everything up and double checking to ensure I had covered all bases, checked earth connections, sensor plugs. Was time to fit the stock ECU and turn the key.

On the initial first cranking it did not start within 5 or so seconds, tried again, nothing at all. Was safe to assume something isn't working. After I turned the key to the off position I noticed a relay located next to the ECU kept clicking. ECCS relay - I thought it may have had something to do with the AFM wiring so I double checked it, only because one mod is the upgraded AFM - then tested the AFM wiring with Multi meter seems to have correct readings. And when I unplugged the AFM the ECCS relay stopped clicking. 

Also because I had changed to a S1 inlet manifold - I thought to also swap out the TPS with my S2 item. I then turned the key to on but not start and the ECCS was still clicking when the key was turned off. At this stage, I ran a quick ECU fault code diagnostic check - results were code 55 - no faults recorded. I installed the Apexi PFC back into the vehicle and got Co-Pilot running to set the TPS to the correct setting. And also check the sensor readings - everything seemed to be correct, except the TPS which was on 9.

Last thing was to open the Stock ECU housing - seen as it was sitting for 7 years to inspect inside for potential corrosion. And there it was as clear as day. Capacitor corroded. Also ran a quick test with the multimeter and found the number 2 was showing zero reading and all others were in the 460 to 470 range. Even though number 1 shows a reading but also corrosion I would be replacing this as well.

After finding this - i uploaded a base map back into the Apexi and car fired up straight away. Its kind of constipated going from 360kw back to stock ;)

IMG_2228.thumb.JPG.dba0e11860f3e06962f854b999606e61.JPG

IMG_2229.thumb.JPG.c0a8f41ca77bcbf5add99ef977ecd3b6.JPG

IMG_2230.JPG.ab932e0e02ee43068a014af50de6ab97.JPG

IMG_2231.JPG.69511c0330b8e8fda43752dee62cc709.JPG

IMG_2232.JPG.f49bd82939a10e00f4dd21178cd9252a.JPG

If it helps just one person in the future then its all well worth the very small effort.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...