Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

 

I just found this thread as I haven't been very active on SAU lately.  I'm seeking some opinions and wanted to start a discussion as this relates to GTR pricing.

 

I got defected a few months ago for having an exhaust that was too loud.  My fault entirely - I knew it and was pretty much on borrowed time, but chose to run the risk anyway as it was pretty much a weekend car (if that).  Long story short, I'll need to go through a full regency inspection to clear the defect.  This is where my troubles begin.

 

 My car is quite heavily modified:

 

RB26/30

Forged Internals

Unknown cams

Trust 100mm Drag Intercooler

Vipec V44

1400cc Injectors

2 x E85 460Lph fuel pumps

O/S Giken 5 speed

O/S Giken triple plate

Vcam - http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448677-new-rb26-vcam-in-let-setup-3000/

HKS GT2530's

Tomei dumps

R34GTR exhaust manifolds, port matched to turbos

Unknown aftermarket 2x70mm into 80mm to meet up with the old AM Performance 4" exhaust

Running on ~ 70% Ethanol content it achieved the attached figures.

 

My dilemna is whether I clear the defect (looking at least $5K for labour to return to stock and then back again) and keep driving it around hoping I'll get my money back later on?  Or should I just bite the bullet and sell it now and not spend any further money on it?  I'd probably be looking at overseas markets - that way I don't have to worry about the defect. 

 

My car is a 1990 Gunmetal grey with ~120k kms on the chassis and the new engine barely run in.  It's in pretty decent overall condition but is not a garage queen.

 

Would appreciate your opinions guys.  I have a daily so am happy to keep this car off the road for a while.

 

Cheers

20161111 - GTR Dyno.jpg

Sorry to hear mate, have you considered buying a complete stock motor? Could probably pick one up for 3k. Do engine swap, clear defect, then swap back.
Your build is almost a mirror build of my car.
Also how much are they going to check, will they go right through the whole car or just check the exhaust is compliant?

That's one option I'd explored already.  There's a place in SA called Sinergy Motorsports that specialise in clearing defects and they're happy to source the motor and do the swap for me.  I'm mechanically retarded, so would rely on a workshop to do the work.  It would cost at least $5K to do all up.  I'll keep an eye out for complete stock motors and see what turns up as this could make things a bit cheaper to do.

 

Unfortunately the defect requires going through Regency inspection, which is a full inspection of the car.  I guess it could be luck of the draw on the day.

 

I guess I've had the car for over 10 years and I thought this might be a sign to finally move on from the car, but I'm not too up to date in terms of market pricing and what I should realistically be doing from a financial standpoint.

 

Thanks for the feedback.  Let's keep the discussion going!

How much do the inspections cost? Why not have a shot at it with a quiet exhaust and changing over the other obvious things they'll pick up on? The turbos and engine itself shouldn't be picked up (assuming you haven't notified them of the different engine number, perhaps say it needed replacing and you hadn't updated it yet). As long as you swap around intake and exhaust you might get lucky on the rest? Worth it if it's a couple hundred to test...

generally in SA i have found if you have made a proper effort they will check the basics and ID and move on. 

if you have tried dodging around the rules and taking the piss with things then they will keep going further.

i.e. when people used to tac weld coilovers so they were "no longer adjustable" or jamming steel wool up huge exhausts the muffle the noise level to move around the laws then they would just hit you hard elsewhere.

but if your cars clean, not too loud, normal parts and well maintained and that you have made a reasonable effort with their prev concerns, then generally they will just make sure the basics are in order. that being said it does depend on the person at the time like all law enforcement situations.

Thanks for the feedback guys.  I think I might do the basics and try once to see what happens.

 

OK, given that this thread is about GTR prices, I'll try and put this back on topic a bit.

 

What would you do if you were me:

 

1)  Worst case spend say around $7K returning to stock and clearing the defect, then maybe keep the car for a bit and or sell

2)  Bite the bullet now and sell it off overseas as is, saving myself the time and money of clearing the defect.  Are overseas buyers interested in heavily modified cars?  Can they get them registered easily?  

 

Cheers

overseas buyers buy them clean from japan. they wont be interested in AUS stuff usually.

take it to Josh at Forge performance. have a frank chat to him about what you want to do and he will give you a good idea on what can be done at a decent budget and get it registered all smick as is.

then you can sell it in aus much easier and for a good dollar.

 i would personally be staying away from synergy.

On 18/09/2017 at 7:07 PM, mxfly said:

 


Price of that blue nur has gone up and down like a yoyo. Was initially 188k. Would've been sold if it was a solid car. The other blue nur with white te37 from Carlingford, Syd sold reasonably quick. The asking was 200k.

 

You were right, the yoyo is going back up now. Price back to 215 after some new photos.

Check this out - prices have further skyrocketed ....  this guy believes so :4_joy::4_joy:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/leederville/cars-vans-utes/1996-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-v-spec-ii-silver/1161617390

What do you say.....lol

     

Edited by IMACUL8
12 hours ago, IMACUL8 said:

Check this out - prices have further skyrocketed ....  this guy believes so :4_joy::4_joy:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/leederville/cars-vans-utes/1996-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-v-spec-ii-silver/1161617390

What do you say.....lol

Under specifications:

Body Type: 4D Sedan
Country of Origin: Australia
Release date: 1/09/1986

?? maybe they put personal info there instead of car info lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...