Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Was checkin out a S1 R33 gtr and can't seem to figure out what was wrong with the turbo.

On acceleration it's making like some of all I can describe as a farting noise.

Definitely isn't working properly.

Definitely not boosting as the last car I viewed.

Just wanted to know is that am expensive fix if stuffed?

OR

Anyone got any videos of a blown turbo or anything that sounds vaguely familiar.?

Trying to figure out the root of the problem.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472360-r33-s1-gtr-turbo-issue/
Share on other sites

Could be air leak like intercooler piping clamps?

What colour is the smoke from the exhaust?

If turbos are stuffed, it could be as cheap as replacement pair of turbos to full engine rebuild assuming it's stock ceramic wheels in these turbos. 

No smoke but i was a passenger so didnt checkout the rear whilst we were driving...

Wasnt blowing smoke before we left but did have a whirly noise thing also going on.

Just sounded like a balloon deflating each time it accellerated into 2nd, 3rd etc engaging the turbo.

Car was stock.

 

Clunky clutch too...bearing gone i think.

Steering wheel had weird ass noises behind the airbag bit too, noisy.

 

Just lacked power/torque unlike the car i saw last week...

 

Overall very average.

 

Then I betcha it's the intercooler piping clamp that doesn't want to clamp.

Judging by what else you've found on the car, walk away from that unless you wanna either play mechanics or park it at a workshop getting these issues fixed.

Yeah I'm not a mechanic but I reckon a full rebuild is on hand if its original 139,000kms+.

Even the injectors were that brittle bits had broken off before we even inspected it.

So didn't bother with a compression test.

 

That was just the start of the list.

Timing belt, power steering pump, clutch bearing, rotors, front diff seal leaking, radiator hoses collapsing, exhaust leak but it was the turbo noise and clutch/steering noises that counted me out.

Shame cause it had a good rust free body.

Just needed a lotta love by a mechanic and/ new engine/turbos.

 

Im finding its either one or the other...good body/bad engine or bad body / good engine..[emoji23]

All good.

Happy to wait for a suitable car to come up for sale. Not in any rush to buy.

I got my LP2 S2 coupe to have fun in so not too worried.

 

Im learning alot as I look.

 

I had to walk away cause $32k just wasnt anywhere near where i am at for this car.

The person selling it wasn't dodgy at all just selling with the only knowledge he knew about the car. Hence my reason for a check.

 

 

If you can get the car for sensible price (i.e. factoring in $10-15k rebuild), grab it providing it's in fantastic condition. Easier to move it on if something bad comes up in your life or some sort. 

Mechanicals are cheaper than bodywork. 

If it means anything to you my rb25 s1 stock turbo blew up a few months back. Farty whoosy noise is exactly the words i used to describe it. So yea at least 1 is probably blown.

 

On a related note, I could have bought a R33 GTR for 14k about 5 years ago good condition not fantastic but good. f**k me they have gone up in value. It was white and I dont like like white so I left it. I regret it now would have been worth 35-40k. Unbelievable looks like I will never buy a GTR now unless i get crazy rich from a miracle.

 

Even r32 gtst are going for 15k now. lol wut they used to be 4-5k 6 years ago.

  • Like 1
If it means anything to you my rb25 s1 stock turbo blew up a few months back. Farty whoosy noise is exactly the words i used to describe it. So yea at least 1 is probably blown.
 
On a related note, I could have bought a R33 GTR for 14k about 5 years ago good condition not fantastic but good. f**k me they have gone up in value. It was white and I dont like like white so I left it. I regret it now would have been worth 35-40k. Unbelievable looks like I will never buy a GTR now unless i get crazy rich from a miracle.
 
Even r32 gtst are going for 15k now. lol wut they used to be 4-5k 6 years ago.


Thanks for the turbo information! I guessed one was stuffed.

I'm just not interested in rusty cars or car's that require over $15k worth of work.
I'll probably just save more and import my own eventually.
On 10/15/2017 at 7:18 PM, mercyseat said:

Yeah I'm not a mechanic but I reckon a full rebuild is on hand if its original 139,000kms+.

Even the injectors were that brittle bits had broken off before we even inspected it.

So didn't bother with a compression test.

 

That was just the start of the list.

Timing belt, power steering pump, clutch bearing, rotors, front diff seal leaking, radiator hoses collapsing, exhaust leak but it was the turbo noise and clutch/steering noises that counted me out.

Shame cause it had a good rust free body.

Just needed a lotta love by a mechanic and/ new engine/turbos.

 

Im finding its either one or the other...good body/bad engine or bad body / good engine..emoji23.png

All good.

Happy to wait for a suitable car to come up for sale. Not in any rush to buy.

I got my LP2 S2 coupe to have fun in so not too worried.

 

Im learning alot as I look.

 

I had to walk away cause $32k just wasnt anywhere near where i am at for this car.

The person selling it wasn't dodgy at all just selling with the only knowledge he knew about the car. Hence my reason for a check.

 

 

Eek...where there's smoke there's fire! Some cars are just full of surprises and it's often a reflection of overall neglect somewhere in its life. Hard to tell dodgy sellers from the ignorant. So many times I've had a seller adamant that their car is perfect, then quizzed them on certain noises and the response comes back "oh it's been like that since I've owned it" or "I didn't notice that". My logic is, if they weren't aware of that...then what else haven't they noticed?

My first clue in a car's overall condition is the interior. Interiors are the first to show wear when a car has been neglected. Also a reflection of the seller's personality - if they don't care about where they are sitting, there's a good chance the rest of the car gets the same treatment!

  • Like 1

Well I was thinking of putting in a lower offer knowing the car probably needs a new engine & gearbox. But not sure what's the price of a S1 GTR shell in that condition?
Cause the body was rust-free from what I could see.
But there's a few other car's I've seen, so just taking my time.

Like I mentioned the guy didn't really know the full history of the car on this occasion and was a nice guy not dodgy.
Just hate seeing car's so neglected [emoji849]

Problem is, if the engine is knackered what about the rest - diff, suspension, bushes, steering, electricals. I guess these cars are at an age now where they all come with risks. Bargains can be had by doing work others can't be bothered. I bought my 33R with a heavy bottom end knock but it was damn cheap.

I've also bought things off dodgy sellers before too, knowing they were dodgy. Just need to know more than them to get the bargain out of it. Like the guy who sold me a monoblock amp for cheap saying it worked fine. Wasn't working when I got it home, but a 10 cent fuse replacement fixed that lol. Probably thought it was toast and wanted to make it someone else's problem for cheap.

  • Like 1

My mate came to see the car. Definitely blown turbo, clutch gone, and a heap of what iffs going on as well so walked away cause the guy still wanted too much for it as is.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...