Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This build was primarily started  to alleviate the issue of having too much lag for a street car, in 2012 I had replaced the factory twin turbos with strengthened RS581 LeMans turbos. This turned into a bit of a mistake as I found the power delivery to be very linear and the car was incredibly doughy at low RPM. At the time I was very unaware of what a responsive twin turbo RB26 should feel like and I just accepted the lag as the car was making more power.

IMG_2107.thumb.JPG.4f1644ca559f14a83c505ec10c81fd63.JPGIMG_2312.JPG.cd32179e6492044e5af858da7af45550.JPG

The budget of an EFR setup has been a huge obstacle for me and as the years have gone by I have finally assembled and decided what is the best combination for my needs. 

 

IMG_2380.JPG.d0c35e9d38543bfc8046962ec26e1e56.JPG

 

My power limit of 300-350kW would rule out the EFR 8374 which was what I had been setting my sights on - but being greedy for more response drove me to the 7670. I also wanted the build to be simple and less complicated which is with I went with the IWG option.                                                                                                                        

The last purchase I made was for the turbo and I wanted to get straight into it - I didn't want to wait and give my money to a garage to fit everything up, it was also my first real overhaul on any car but decided to hack away at it and give it a go.

Conditions were not perfect, I had to remove the twins and all the factory hoses and piping, this was done outside after work so I only had a few hours of daylight each day.

IMG_2388.thumb.JPG.737ae8b48c2973ddaabf5f2ee515ea5d.JPG

Starting from the top was a good approach and everything with a nut or bolt was loosened and removed  to declutter and improve morale on the task ahead.. 

IMG_2389.thumb.JPG.f9587f2deb48a8f87159ee16d14a14fc.JPG

IMG_2391.thumb.JPG.056be5d4b46a5fad539edb5e10558f6f.JPG

 

IMG_2395.thumb.JPG.158296a7ad9259ca34cc6ce176c65f30.JPG

More and more parts had to come off the car which was daunting to begin with but everything had a bag to go in so I could be reassembled without any headaches, the A/C was also completely removed while everything was off.

 

After many short frustrating nights I finally had the twins out and could start mocking up the fitment and how everything around the turbo was going to run.

 

IMG_2410.thumb.JPG.e5e6aed40d43d8893dc7ffa296ebff66.JPG

IMG_2427.thumb.JPG.2513f67e0d3d46acfbf54fc91559e242.JPG

Immediately I thought shaping and welding sections of intercooler pipe would be the way to go with the plumbing for the turbo.

 

Weather kept packing in and progress was delayed so someone kindly let me in to a hangar to make up for the time lost.

 

IMG_2439.thumb.JPG.30b83dd0051679192a44f724c8b0234c.JPG

 

IMG_2435.thumb.JPG.017a36c76dc06ffc5f3ad3f311ed0a30.JPG

All the recirc and blow off valve parts were removed to rid the car of dead weight.

IMG_2436.thumb.JPG.f3172dc62f621116ff9ac8c18e526c35.JPG

Plenty of progress was made while I could work in here and also while removing the old recirc piping I found that it would be a perfect fit and bend for the turbo and would subsequently save me a heap of time instead of an intercooler pipe fabricated to do the same job.

IMG_2429.thumb.JPG.7d35a09db7ce8e65b2f54515e4e63cae.JPG

Knowing that the factory actuator could potentially cause problems with boost control it was swapped for a Turbosmart IWG75 twin port actuator.

IMG_2440.thumb.JPG.b05cf06221c1aadc5248d01d503030d8.JPG

Turbo was off and on more times than I could count to get everything torqued down and hose lengths and the p/s reservoir lines to fit up tidily.

 

IMG_2462.thumb.JPG.fa13ddc452fc8ef8653ec0e2c3d18ad5.JPG

After everything was fitted and tightened down I removed the plugs to crank the engine over and confirm the oil flow for the turbo feed. After a few cranks the new oil started coming out and could be attached to the turbo. 

 

IMG_2465.JPG.faa99fe4ab9b3d34a9cb1e01a19ef230.JPG

IMG_2466.thumb.JPG.8ef87f7673ad9afcbe1e0b97c075d2d8.JPG

As the blow off valves were also removed and a cap was made for the hose. It would holt 20+psi better than a WD40 cap!

IMG_2469.thumb.JPG.a2c325c618445ec863639d5baf2c9d2b.JPG

The downpipe posed to be one of the biggest problems as no one in my area would supply or create pre-bent 3.5" stainless tube. I had to purchase a 3.5" stainless donut from sinco to sort out the rest of the exhaust. This was an absolute nightmare to cut.

More and more small parts started to become apparent to me that I'd need to finish everything off and after a bucket load of invoices and receipts I finally had everything I needed. Most of my time was spend running back and forth from the shops to find the correct fittings, hoses etc. - rookie stuff.

 

IMG_2508.thumb.JPG.d29e6bb7784bc9e312102f43b78f551f.JPG

IMG_2511.thumb.JPG.4eeb16e9a3548771837b0c9578094669.JPG

Everything started to take shape at this stage and I was very happy on how simplified I made the engine bay. Boost control and blow off valve lines were sorted after this and the engine bay had a general refresh.

No leaks were discovered and the car has since been waiting for a dyno tune.

IMG_2518.thumb.JPG.170174b1b70e6fcb7f307cb1c650d327.JPG

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

IMG_2380.JPG

Edited by Dievos
grammar, remove unwanted picture.
  • Like 6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472431-r32-gtr-efr-7670-build/
Share on other sites

Nice write up mate thanks for sharing! 

This will be a cracking little setup! 

Something ive looked forward to seeing somebody do as this as an alternative to a -7 or -9 power range but will absolutely knock them out the park for response and driveability.

Proof that you dont just go single because you want a million hp GTR!

So the car will be on 98? 

How long till shes tuned? Looking forward to seeing how she goes ?

Cheers for the words mate, 300kW+ is plenty for me and making it quickly will only make me happier.

You're right - will be using 98 for the tune. Should be going on the dyno this Wednesday, excited to see what results I will get on a standard engine.

The 1.05 rear would of definately helped your cause on 98 with only a couple hundred rpm sacrifice  (that you probably wouldnt have noticed due to a lil more off boost torque filling the void) but obviously would have been a much more expensive exercise.

Im gunna take a punt and say this set up will be more responsive than the stock turbos and make more power everywhere and 100kw more than the stock turbos. 

Again using bro science i expect this thing to start getting rapid around the 3500 zone in early gears. 

Keep us posted and see how far off the money my predictions are haha! ?

thats mad. instant boost. but do yourself a favor and cut the "divider" part of the gasket out or find a mls single entry gasket. as all the t4 dual entry "gasket leaks" ive fixed are because of the divider.

the divider wall is the hottest part of the housing and "grows" more than the periphery, constantly lifts on the divider and eventually lifts enough to break the seal around the outside of the flange. the oxy cuts the gasket away leaving a nice section missing but the divider perfectly intact.. :)

Firstly, I'll say that the results were a bit inconclusive. We had real issues with the nuts on the actuator coming loose and being a general pain to adjust midway through testing. It was a rookie mistake from me in the first place to not set the preload accurately. We ended up double nutting the actuator to secure it in place, where it ended up being set was quite low and effected the spool by a fair margin. This is what we ended up with:

IMG_2550.thumb.JPG.77922ce1adb3e7d073d8453e2310b49c.JPG

From here I will adjust the preload on the turbo correctly but I'm expecting it to have a massive impact on the spool. What I found interesting was how things were out of breath around 6500rpm. Can anyone here say that standard cams would be the issue here - seems odd for that to happen so early. Valvetrain getting tired perhaps? 

 

This run was done on 21psi. The green trace is was the old setup with the LeMan turbos on 1.6bar and and red trace is the EFR.

Off the dyno the car feels awesome to drive and along with the baby T51R sound I rarely see myself going over 5000rpm because of the torque.

 

9 minutes ago, fatz said:

same turbo on a mates car ran 270rwkw and dies in the arse after 6k

 

so you on the money

he upgraded to the nxt size up and was much happier

But yet they go 380-400 quite comfortably on 4G's. ?.

Need to bin the IWG and Externally gate it. 

IWG versions of most EFR setups have proven to be a bit disappointing.

Don't forget this turbo has a rear end wheel bigger than a gt35, it will always be 'laggy' its a pretty big turbo, not being able to spin it up due to gate issues (or 98) will take the wind out of it.

It's still a bit early to say that it's a disappointing result.

This is what we have also mapped.

IMG_2539.JPG.a76ea363e5960fd323e81b7fa2586876.JPG

 

I'm still puzzled at what might be causing the drop off at 6500rpm, it doesn't look like an ignition problem judging by the trace and the boost still holds fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...