Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like the title says, ISO wiring diagram for the A/T R32 4 speed. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Since I can't find the harness, I'm going to see if I can just snip some connectors off of my old chassis harness and re-pin them for the various wires. 

If anyone's got a lead on the diagram that'd be amazing. Also, can someone throw up a picture of their fuse box? There's 4 plugs on the side for the autos, I want to see what plugs go where. I'm assuming 3 plugs are for the transmission inputs since there's 3 sets of wires, the other plug I'm assuming is either alternator or something else?

 

Thanks!

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472511-iso-at-wiring-diagram/
Share on other sites

I've included some pictures of the cut wiring. The moron prior snipped the connectors off and hard wired a lot of things. I wish I had taken a look before undoing this. Unfortunately it was so jacked up that nothing matched. To add insult to injury, the new chassis harness and the old chassis harness TCM plug wiring colors are different. They were both A/T so I'm assuming different year or different trim? The new chassis harness supports more things my old one didn't (EGT probe) and some power options. 

I've identified the brown + black wire as going to a connector and I fortunately had a spare pigtail I can make work that fits the bottom plug on the fuse box. Though I still have the 3 sets of wires. I'm assuming they're 7 pin, 7 pin, 3 pin. There's terminals on the fuse box for just that.

If someone would be kind enough to check under the hood, trim back some of the wire and just take a picture of all three plugs from the transmission side going in so I can see what wires go to what pins. I still need a pigtail for a 7 pin plug which is missing. I wonder if it's possible to convert a male pin plug to female?

20171027_134255.jpg

20171027_134250.jpg

20171026_163100.jpg

Minor progress has been made. Old chassis harness was part # 24010-03U10 (CA18i motor) and the new GTS-T harness is part #24014-01U11 (RB20DET motor). If it's any consolation, if anyone needs to look up part numbers for their harnesses use the following link:

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/carlist.php?maker=nissan

Update: The brown and black wire go to the inhibitor switch. If you look at the picture uploaded, it's the plug on the bottom of the fuse box. 

For those doing the M/T swap you'll know that you can merely bridge this connector with a single wire and two space connectors. It'll allow you to start the car. For us slush box guys, the same principle applies. Though frankly, every wire should have a home in my opinion. 

The other plug I discovered is the gear selector. I'm still yet to find any sort of TCM pin out nor is there anyone who's even cut the plug off and dissected it, however what I do know is that you can use the male end (chassis side) to tap into the reverse lights. From what I've read it's a red wire and a green with white stripe wire which are for reverse. 

All that's left is to deduce what the other wires are. Similarly, I looked closer under the car, there's a shielded cable with a red and white wire coming off of it. Previous owner cut it back and tied in another wire to the shielding wire. Not sure what the purpose was, if anyone has any clue it'd be helpful.

Also....what the hell is the 3 wire plug on the fuse box go to and what does the brown plug go to?! It's driving me nuts!

Inked20171026_163100_LI.jpg

Inked20171026_163100_LI.jpg

I had significant difficulty finding any kind of pinout for the TCM, however this will prove helpful to anyone with an A/T transmission.

 

Nissan RE4R01A Transmission Pinouts


Nissan RE4R01A Socket
Nissan RE4R01A Plug

 

This Socket is on the Transmission Loom
and on the Tester's Computer side.

 

 

This Plug is on the Vehicle's Computer Loom
and on the Tester's Transmission side.

 

  1     2     3     4  
  5     6     7     8  
  4     3     2     1  
  8     7     6     5  
Pin Use Socket 
Wire Colour
Plug 
Wire Colour
       
1 Solenoid "B" Yellow Green        
2 Solenoid "A" Green Green/Black trace        
3 Overrun Solenoid * Grey Green/Yellow trace        
4 Pressure Solenoid + Red Green        
5 Lockup Solenoid Blue Green/Red trace        
6 Temp Sensor White Green/White trace        
7 Temp Sensor Black Yellow/Red trace        
8 4WD Temp Switch            
* Activates Upon Various Throttle Openings 
* Note: Apply power to Overrun Solenoid (To be Off)
+ Pulse Modulation Controlled By Computer
 
 
In addition to this I'm working on the gear selector wires which I will do a separate diagram for.
 

@niZmO_Man the wire colors on the plug don't match the above, however based on the pin locations alone I assume they serve the same purpose. 

I will transpose another diagram with the grey plug and again the brown plug. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've done a few BMS systems. Code in Canada use to force us to have any safety components outside of the PLC but with a code change back in 2018 I believe it was, we can now use safety PLC's to control everything. Sadly to your point, AB Guardlogix safety instructions for example are only available in ladder.  Machine safety is a very big thing here though, you're constantly forced to migrate to the next best thing by OSHA. I honestly prefer safety plc's, including anything from AB more then I do working with old school safety monitoring relays. PLC is only one portion of it, the rest of the electrical still has to follow to meet SIL (Mechanically linked dual contacts, bla bla)  Now tell me how to feel about safety over comm's (e.g Ethernet/IP CIP) on a unmaintained network haha
    • To your point, boolean logic. We're not only working with bools in ecu's, so it's very limiting. I wanted to setup a low WMI pressure alarm. After 1 second I want WMI line to hit 100PSI, 2 seconds 175PSI, etc. and trigger an alarm if it doesn't meet those thresholds. This would of taken me one very short line of text, but instead I had to bugger around with generic timers, conditions, etc. and so forth.
    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
×
×
  • Create New...