Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having a problem with a constant misfire at around 1700-2800rpm.

Tried and Swapped;

Unplugging tps

Cas swap

Plug gap 0.6 - 0.8 - 1.0

Swapping coilpacks with others

fuel filter

fuel pump

injectors

 

I've attached a log file and a video.

 

I have zero idea where to go from here... This problem is only evident on idle and at constant throttle around the 1-5% throttle. 

4-11-2017_1915idlefluctuations.csv

Video.MOV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472592-misfire-at-constant-throttle/
Share on other sites

On 11/5/2017 at 11:54 AM, Trex said:

I'm having a problem with a constant misfire at around 1700-2800rpm.

 

I've attached a log file and a video.

 

I have zero idea where to go from here... This problem is only evident at constant throttle around the 1-5% throttle.

4-11-2017_1915idlefluctuations.csv

Video.MOV

Prob not the same thing but mine acted very similar when i built it from 1000-1500 and was a pain in the but to take off from stationary. 

 

turned out i had the intake cam 1 tooth advanced and when VCT  engaged it would hunt like yours and have no power. Disconnecting VCT or adjusting the TPS down a bit so VCT came in at a higher RPM kept it under control until i could pull it apart and adjust cam timing

  • Like 1

 

On 11/5/2017 at 11:20 PM, Guilt-Toy said:

put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line going into the rail and watch it when misses and look for any issues

Thanks, I'm doing that this weekend. It has to be something related to fueling.

On 11/6/2017 at 4:10 PM, t_revz said:

Prob not the same thing but mine acted very similar when i built it from 1000-1500 and was a pain in the but to take off from stationary. 

 

turned out i had the intake cam 1 tooth advanced and when VCT  engaged it would hunt like yours and have no power. Disconnecting VCT or adjusting the TPS down a bit so VCT came in at a higher RPM kept it under control until i could pull it apart and adjust cam timing

I can't imagine it would skip a tooth, haha i hope not.

 

Haha I completely missed cell 67 - 72 - 113 - 172 - 220.

The tps is dropping out. Very prevalent today on the logs as it's getting worse over time. I tested so many things in the last week. I tested the voltage and throttle position percentage about 5 times each with nothing out of the ordinary, or more so that it was so quick, intermittent and sporadic that it never stood out.

The way we found out was watching the diagnostics window we could see the fuel cut go active and then noticed the tps was dropping out.

So i now need a new tps.

 

  • 2 months later...

Thought I should post my findings.

Changed the TPS, it was just a coincidence mine was wearing at the same time.

It was my transient throttle turning on and off and not having the correct settings. It was injecting a lot of fuel and the o2 was trying to combat it. Causing an oscillation in the afr.

All fixed now.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...