Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

So 2 of the rims that came on my car when i brought it have now cracked in the same spot, so figured i may as well buy all new wheels. i've spent a couple hours last night searching the wheels and offset thread, found alot of good information but couldn't find enough to get a proper answer.

I am looking at getting some Rota P1R wheels. having some trouble making sure i've got the right offsets tho.

The choices are the following

18x9.5 +27

18x9.5 +35

18x9.5 +38

Have compared my current to the the following on WillTheyFit.com, but still not sure which would be the best choice, i think the +27 on the front would stick out to much but not sure if the +35 would be to close on the inner.  But i think the +27 would fit the rear pretty nice, Going to jack the car up this afternoon and try and check clearance.

Just wondering if anyone knows off the top of their heads the best offsets to get?

 

Cheers in advance.

 

 

 

Hey mate.

They're basically perfect, as I have 9.5 and +27 all round. You WILL need to roll/lip the guards if you want to run chunky tyres. I run 265's all round and I do not get scrub and I mean that will barely fit.

The 9.5 +38/+35 will hit at the front. Need a spacer.

IMO, the +27 at the rear pokes more than the front does, I was suprised that when putting same wheel size on all 4 the fronts natrually are a little more in.

I want a 10+38 on the rear so I can run a 285/295 for max tyre.

So ultimately, you may need a spacer or two if you go for the +35/38 combination, the 27 will max it out. 35 with some spacers/extended studs will get it to sit in a little.

Awesome, exactly what i was looking for, i was a bit worried about the front inside hitting the suspension arms but seems it will be okay :)


i will be running 245/40/18 on the front and 265/35/18 on the rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...