Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some of you may recall my RB20 powered 48 Studebaker, which I described here in some detail, and my RB20 powered RX-7. Both of these cars are running and driving very well. My Stiletto three wheeler was also running well until one day I had a wiring meltdown, cause unknown, that included melting the plastic box with all the relays and fuses. This is a 1984 Kawasaki Z1300 , one of the very first motorcycle engines with electronic fuel injection, and NOTHING was tuneable or adjustable except the idle speed. We discussed some of the aftermarket fuel injection systems. But we kept coming back to the fact that we had accumulated a lot of RB20 spare parts – ECU, ignition module, cam sensor, throttle sensor, MAF and a wire harness. The Kawasaki is a straight six, twin cams, same firing order – why not make it a research project ? The Kawasaki had a crank sensor only, with a lost spark system meaning it fired the plugs every revolution. My machinist made an adapter to drive the RB20 cam sensor off the exhaust cam, and the rest was pretty straight forward, not to say it was simple.  I am using a Z32 instrument cluster - figuring out how to drive the electronic speedo may be a challenge.

 

We built a custom intake plenum, used the RB20 injectors, coil packs, throttle body and TPS from an Infiniti J30 (Nissan Leopard), stock Kawasaki fuel pump (36 psi) and a custom made fuel rail, air box and air filter setup. We sent the ECU to ConceptZ to get the Nistune board installed, and my tuner guy wasted about a hour to figure out they had installed the wrong map. Once he downloaded the correct map he had it starting, idling and running smoothly in just a few minutes.


We got a Code 21 fault, and I checked the coils – they all have the same primary resistance, and I don't know what else to check. It seems to run just fine.  Any suggestions what else to check?

The Youtube video shows the Stiletto running and driving with the original Kawasaki system – drove it for about 5 years with very few problems.  DSC07448.thumb.JPG.b877863a7f74bd33ff639efc8b2af3bd.JPGDSC07452.thumb.JPG.e7d94b5b5f5aa95e5ae5ec3386b11dbd.JPGDSC07445.thumb.JPG.db2da60166a5ecb4cd6ef8262b51637b.JPGhttp://stilettoman.info/2014/09/the-stiletto-project/

  • Like 3

Wow, that's awesome  

I always thought you like women's shoes, didn't realise that is what your name means!

 

The ecu seems to know stuff about the coils, so even if the primary resistance is the same, the dwell requirements may be different and giving different feedback, causing the code

  • Like 1

It has always amazed me that maybe 1% of women and 5% of men seem to know what a Stiletto is.  It was the weapon of choice for Italian, and particularly Sicilian, assassins since the time of Machiavelli in the late 1400s.  When the Italian shoe designer made the first shoe with a very thin spike heel in about 1950, someone said it looks like a stiletto, and the rest is history.  When people have asked me about my email address, I always say I am a hit man in my spare time.  You should have noticed that I incorporated an image of a stiletto in my logo.  The name just came to me when I realized I had designed something that had a sharp point at one end.

Thanks for the comments - I think my tuner just wanted me to verify the coils were all good, and hopefully he can tune out the dwell issue. We are all very proud of the fact the cam sensor works so well - we set a cup of coffee on the motor and it doesn't even make waves when it is running - pretty much like a stock RB20.  We will make another video and post more photos when it is finished - the wiring is a rats nest, but I don't want to tape anything up until I am sure we are through making changes.

Logo2fixed.JPG

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...

Hi Stilettoman, would you still have the original dfi parts of your ZG1300? If so, I would be interested in buying them. By the way, I also added an aftermarket closed loop fuel injection system to an 1300 engine. Vendor = KMS management systems https://kms.vankronenburg.nl/.

Works like a charm! It took me some time though to get the mappings right. That is, the injection map and the timing advance map. Can you share your maps? No problem to give you mine. 

Hope to hear from you!

Ruud

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...