Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks my dudes. 

Going to get the paint finally sorted in a few weeks, unfortunately I was struck with the old "Low hanging exhaust", so I need to get myself a Tig to remake it, not the worst thing in the world. 

On 6/30/2018 at 7:04 PM, Callum14 said:

let’s be real no one really cares. 

Come on, no need to be like that. People are subscribed to this thread (myself included) which says the exact opposite! 

  • 2 weeks later...

Listen to somebody who has spent more money on cars than you could ever dream of. The car you have will be everything you want it to be if you just stick to it. They are a great chassis and the suspension is ahead of most cars from early 2000 so the only difference between your car and and a truly fast, safe car is the components that make them that way. Get good suspension, tyres, brakes but most of all read everything on these forums and do it right. Oh, and power of course but only if the engine is up to it. About 270 to 300rwkw is where most people would be happy. If you are young, then now is the time to try an engine rebuild or paint the car yourself or change suspension etc. Youtube is your friend.

Yeh I’ll eventually chase some power, but got other debts/stuff to pay for. 

Hard enough convincing the misso to let me paint it haha, but she’s cool with it all. 

And thanks Prank, everyone has a story to tell I guess!

Anyway small update, paint in 2 weeks, in anticipation I found some coupe pods (would have liked Sedan pods but these were $40) hard to see in photo but it makes it look so much better  

3A030A8C-09FA-4876-BF79-8B7CEAC20743.thumb.jpeg.5d8a8d35db622a32aab3bb66c817f616.jpeg

 

Also installed my clutch pedal, have a manual brake pedal to go in (or if I cbf just cut this one down) 

0B644800-B409-479C-BADA-27F6747F80AD.thumb.jpeg.59752b55489c76515048c26d026e8726.jpeg

Wont even look for a gearbox until Paint is done. But will start collecting bits and pieces. 

  • Like 1

I remember years ago we converted a XYGT Falcon from auto to manual and after driving a manual in my own car I didn't test how the pedals feel. So we finished the job, original brake pedal from the auto still in place. Trouble is, I hadn't gotten used to the pedal placement as the clutch was in the same place as my car. We were heading out to Penrith, long before the roads had stop lights at the intersection of The great western Highway and Mamre Road, and as I came to the stop sign I put my foot on the accelerator instead of the brake because the brake pedal was so far to the left. 

We flew across the Great Western Highway at close to 100kph and hit absolutely nothing on a Saturday afternoon with traffic everywhere. Change the brake pedal.

Just now, skylinecouple said:

We flew across the Great Western Highway at close to 100kph and hit absolutely nothing on a Saturday afternoon with traffic everywhere. Change the brake pedal.

Jesus, yeah I just cut it down when I converted my Sylvia and it was fine, but I have a manual one to go in so might as well do it. 

A friend bought a Daihatsu something or other which came from the factory as an auto. Brake pedal had the same problem. To the left. He had just been down the shop to get oil in his normal car as he was doing an oil change on the Daihatsu. Got in the little bastard after topping up the oil, put it in reverse and smashed the accelerator to the floor thinking it was the brake.

Trouble is, he had the drivers door open at the time and it hooked onto the fence beside the driveway. Broke the fence, bent the door hinges, crushed the door itself and rammed the car behind him, his car. 

You may get used to the pedal but it's not funny when somebody else drives it. Well, in the Daihatsu it was, but not any other time.

Just thought I'd ask, have you decided on a colour if you paint it ? Black is good but damn, hard to keep clean or shiny. What was the original colour ?

2 hours ago, skylinecouple said:

Just thought I'd ask, have you decided on a colour if you paint it ? Black is good but damn, hard to keep clean or shiny. What was the original colour ?

I've been set on just staying black and going KH3 Black, but I've seen a few in KN6 grey/black, and it makes it pop a little more. 

I hate swirl marks, but too much more effort going from dark to light. 

  • 1 month later...

Looks great. Couple of good polishes and it will look like Darth's helmet. Don't go too dark on window tinting. Makes it cop bait. Black paint, black tint, black tyres. It's all a bit much. 

On 9/29/2018 at 6:57 PM, skylinecouple said:

Looks great. Couple of good polishes and it will look like Darth's helmet. Don't go too dark on window tinting. Makes it cop bait. Black paint, black tint, black tyres. It's all a bit much. 

I hate dark tint. I drive a low car, the last thing I want is to give them a reason to pull me over haha. 

It looks low but it's not really (apart from the exhaust)

Need to get:
- New Exhaust
- Manual conversion. 

 

Also trying to take some nice pics to upload. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...