Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Got a bit of an issue with my V35 manual coupe.
Wondering if anyone has any ideas what could be causing the sound in attached video?
 

  • Happens when decelerating from anything over 80km/h
  • Steering wheel will shake sometimes, other times it doesn't.
  • The noise is present without braking
  • Wheels and tyres are fine - IMPUL F919S with new Federal 595RSRs
  • Noise appears to be coming from drivers front wheel area
  • Calipers are not stuck

I've put the car up in the air and can't find anything visually wrong underneath. Spun the wheels by hand, sounds normal.
Was hoping it would be a wheel bearing, but now I'm not so sure.

Any ideas?

 

received_1749827491756552.mp4

Edited by nicholascleef

have you checked for loose plastic inner guard covers, sounds like something slapping around in there, maybe some of the plastic clips have broken?

Other than that, possibly bad bushes.  Does the noise go away if you apply brakes?

The noise doesn't go away if I apply brakes, nor if I put the clutch in. Inner guards etc are all secure and as normal. The noise only goes away once the vehicle has slowed down to below 80km/h regardless of whether I apply the brakes or just let the car gradually slow down.

Has brand new rotors and pads. Clutch is brand new too - Exedy heavy duty, single mass flywheel conversion.
Front lower arm bushes and lower ball joints replaced also. All this work was done less than 5,000km ago, car has been driving fine until recently.

Noise started occurring when I was giving it the beans, so I've obviously damaged something.

Edited by nicholascleef

I know you said the guards are secure but plus one on sounding like loose plastic.

I had an issue awhile ago where one of the smaller plastic covers that links to the undertray was loose.

Wind would hit it at certain speed, get partially trapped and would make noise.

 

hmm.. if it was bushes, I would expected to have seen some change with brakes, possibly steering linkages, but I would think that would be more obvious.

I know you checked, but the only thing I can think of that lines up with the symptoms well is a loose splash guard or fender liner.

Giving it a boot full of throttle shouldn't have broken anything in the front suspension, it is just there to steer and brake.

Thanks everyone for the responses. The noise ended up being the under tray, some of the clips were broken, hence it was partially loose. Not sure how I didn't notice this the first time I had the car up on the hoist. Obviously it was catching the wind at 80km/h+.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 180SX has a much better look than a FD. The roofline is far superior being a fastback. It's popups look better. In a world where we all subconsciously add a little bit of low, and wheels of our preference, it's just more handsome than the FD is. The FD just looks 'bubbly' in comparison. It can come down to preference, sure. But "The FD is the BEST looking (on appearances alone) 90's JDM car without question?" Nah. Plenty of questions lol. I could think of 8 cars I think look fundamentally better, and probably a handful of ones that look about on par with a FD. (like say a SW20 MR2) I feel people like/overrate the FD because of it's mythicality/rarity, its rotary and it's unpredictable nature. It probably drives great, you can stuff a ton of tyre under there, has a unique sound, light as hell. I feel that people reading this thinking "YOU CANT RATE A 180 ABOVE A FD BECAUSE A 180 IS A CHEAP DRIFT BUCKET" prove the point about bias as to what the car represents, moreso than how it actually looks.. And this thread is purely about looks :p
    • A red or yellow S15 wins my vote, Ack that it just scraps in with the 90's cars theme, but they are great looking little sports car Next would be a A80 Supra (pre face lift), whilst the A80 has its own issues, I feel is the best looking larger GT car As for the FD, "I" feel that the reason it triggers me in a non-positve way when looking at one, is like looking at a high maintenance pretty girl who you know is mentally unstable and likely to explode for no apparent reason
    • Yes, it's because it has hips and bulges on the top/front surface, a tiny cockpit and roof, and the skin looks like it is stretched over muscle. The proportions are....perfect. Long nose, short rear, short roof. What's not to like? It continues the theme started with the S1, that peaked with the FC, being "looking like a front engined Porsche", while gaining a little more of the 60's Mustang coupe profile and stretching the skin more tightly over the understructure. The FD is definitely colour sensitive though. Like all Mazdas. There are plenty of details on it that changed over the years that were either better or worse, could have been done better the first time and/or never changed for the worse. But...the same can be said for the NSX. In fact, that's probably even more true for the NSX. I've also just worked out that part of the reason I don't like the rear of the NSX is that the integrated wing is too similar to that shitful R33 rear wing.  
    • I wonder if people like the FD because it reminds them of old 60's roadsters and such. It just gives me such a 'roadster/soft cruising' vibe as opposed to anything more hard-edged and purposeful. That, mixed with 90's melted soap bar styling. It's hardly ugly, but it's kinda oddly proportioned to me, relative to about 10 other cars I had a think about based on this thread. 
    • Well, unless you are prepared to do it yourself, or to pay someone for a lot of labour, you don't want to move the rear camber around much at all. Close to stock length on the rear upper arms (both the RUCAs and the tension arms) will minimise the addition of bump steer. That means you should probably be satisifed with whatever neg camber you end up with as a result of it being lowered, and not try to dial too much of it out. Dialling it out by making big changes to the RUCA length will require effort put into tuning the length of the tension arms. And, apart from front caster and toe at both ends.....that's all there is to talk about. So, yes, toe settings, pretty much.
×
×
  • Create New...