Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 neo oil pressure sensor

Eager

By Eager,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

This is the part:
http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/pressure-sender-nissan-300zx-skyline-p-1220.html

It is the same across most of the Nissans of it's age.

It screws into the side of the oil filter block, look for a brassy/gold cylinder next to the oil filter with a big yellow plug you can't miss it.

Use this link for more information:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=rb25+oil+pressure+switch&rlz=1C1GCEA_enAU759AU759&oq=rb25+oil+pressure+switch&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3j69i59l2.2387j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Link to comment
Share on other sites
thebe Enthusiast

thebe

Posted
Posted

On my ecr33 my pressure gauge was lazy and sometimes not reacting to revs or moving at all. I removed the sender, cleaned and fitted again (to different a block) and now it reads very close to my new defi gauge. Wouldnt count on it on a tuned engine (hence why I bought the defi) but seems I extended its life a bit

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

If you un-plug it you can get a socket/ring spanner over it - Take the filter off too for some more room.

There's not a whole lot of room so you'll have to be a little creative but it shouldn't be too difficult. Perhaps go from underneath if you can get the car up on some stands/wheels

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      R32 GTS/GTST non driven wheel speed

      By Roy · Posted

      Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably).   All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work.  Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :(   I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket.
    • Butters
      Garrett G-XRace Range

      By Butters · Posted

      Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • Butters
      RB gearbox options

      By Butters · Posted

      If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • dbm7
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • GTSBoy
      Fake ARP bolts?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
×
×
  • Create New...