Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty much as the title says, I have a 97 R33 and the engine does not like to idle comfortably. On start up and warm up it revs itself to 1.5 to 2k which I assume is pretty standard but once it is warm it will drop right down to 300 to 500 (going by the tach it might be slightly higher but not much) and feels like it's a Cummins instead of an RB. The worst part is rolling up to a set of lights, if I don't engine brake the whole way it will stall and I have to blip the revs whenever I have the clutch in. Once it recovers it will idle, but will feel rough (usually around 700, slow enough that the aircon doesn't really work, also another problem I have with the car, the aircon won't be cold lower than 1.2 to 1.5k rpm, I assumed this was a part of the previous issue). The exhaust also smells quite fuely.

 

The car is pretty much stock apart from a front mount, BOV (which is set to full recirculation anyway) and a pod filter and always runs 98

 

I do plan on eventually putting a haltech or equivalent ecu once I find the funds but that could be years off so any help fixing this would be great,

 

Thanks in advance

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473044-rb-25det-idle-problems/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few more recent pics
    • full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...