Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

wiring in my Emtron KV8 at the moment and was checking the sensor ground in pin 30 of the stock engine harness was isolated from power ground (pin 50&60) I'm seeing about 26kohm. this is with the ecu disconnected, and the water temp, air temp and TPS disconnected which are the only devices shown to be wired to pin 30 in the nissan schematic.

any ideas where this would be coming from?

to clarify, I'm not looking for suggestions on how to fault find this, I'm asking if this is:

-a normal condition for the stock R34 GTR engine loom and where the impedance between sensor and power grounds comes from or

-I have an issue somewhere in the loom that i need to find

Makes sense.  I've been sitting here wracking my brain trying to work out what would put a medium sized impedance on that line.  had already discounted AFMs, on the assumption that you'd likely removed them to suit the new ECU.  In input on another CU would be the right sort of impedance.

yea, Pin 30 on the ECU (sensor ground for TPS,Water temp and Air temp) is connected to Atessa ECU pin 34 as the TPS signal ground reference, so I'm guessing there is a link between the Atessa ecu pin34 and chassis ground inside the Atessa ECU with a 26kohm impedance. looking at the MFD display wiring schematic, the sensor ground doesn't appear to be wired to it, so just the Atessa ECU responsible.

the AFMs have a 12v and chassis ground to them, the stock ECU has dedicated ground pins (in 26 and 34) for the AFM signals (in 27 and 35) they are not connected to sensor ground in the loom.

Edited by burn4005
  • 1 year later...

Stumbled across this trying to resolve a fault on my r34 gtr. I wondered where that impedance was coming from. The diagram shows atessa pin 34 as sensor ground connected to pin 43 of ecm, except ecm pin out for pin 43 is ign switch start signal according to manual. However, something is giving me an unstable throttle position signal when driving causing the car to surge, when tps signal pin 23 is taken away from the atessa the car drives normal again. The Mfd still shows the thottle % fluttering +/- ~5% with steady throttle and at idle up to 2% flutter when the atessa has the tps signal removed. At this stage it’s seeming like an ecm or atessa computer fault. Anything else anyone could think of that might cause this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
    • from an old insurance company i was with (Budget Direct) I had someone roll back into me at the lights got them to pull over. Got a picture of thier licence with address, had a dash cam video and, thier phone number. But only had 3rd party on the shitbox i was driving. insurance did nothing, cops wouldn't do anything due to the value of the damage (under $3000) so i just had to suck it up and go to U Pull It. 
    • Small Update on the Exhaust Situation A 200-cell cat was a bit too expensive for now, so I had the exhaust shop fabricate a new exhaust from the cat to the rear and an exhaust tip. I went this route to avoid cutting into the original exhaust and keep it intact. It’s essentially straight-piped, and the sound is noticeably different. The exhaust tip came with a silencer, so if it gets too loud, I can easily install it to tone things down slightly. Right now, the car bangs and pops like crazy -- which I personally love. In the future, I might add a resonator or a 200-cell cat, as niZmO_Man suggested, but for now, I’m really happy with how it turned out.  
    • And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.
×
×
  • Create New...