Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 DE+T with R33 gearbox, R34 auto loom - speedo?

Pr0x1mity
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pr0x1mity Proficient

Pr0x1mity

Posted
Posted

Hey guys!

So I have a GTV that has an auto loom. It's been converted to manual with an R33 GTST gearbox (working great)  but no speedo!

 

Stock R33 Speedo drive on the gearbox - How do I go about getting a working speedo with this loom?

Now - the ECU is an R34 GTT Nistune as the car is DE+T

 

Any ideas?

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

It's actually fairly tricky to find. I had to change the sensor and the auto loom has two things labelled as "Speed sensor"

The one you want ISNT the one that is grey and shielded. Checking the loom is the way to go. If you still have the gearbox I actually looked at the plugs on the auto to figure it out and then joined the R33 speed sensor into those. I want to say they were black and brown but man I wouldn't bet on this particular response.

  • 4 months later...
6BANGER Enthusiast

6BANGER

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 1/15/2018 at 6:44 AM, Kinkstaah said:

It's actually fairly tricky to find. I had to change the sensor and the auto loom has two things labelled as "Speed sensor"

The one you want ISNT the one that is grey and shielded. Checking the loom is the way to go. If you still have the gearbox I actually looked at the plugs on the auto to figure it out and then joined the R33 speed sensor into those. I want to say they were black and brown but man I wouldn't bet on this particular response.

 

I got a 25Det NEO installed in a R34 GT and lost speed signal. I checked the gearbox and found the black and brown wires that run to the speed sensor. Question is, where abouts on the cluster do I need to run this wire to? 

I have already tried running a direct wire from the brown on the speed sensor to pin 19 on the back of the cluster which didnt work. I can confirm there is nothing wrong with either the sensor or cluster so its down to a wiring issue.

Edited by 6BANGER
mistake

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...