Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Wanting to buy a "C" type crossmember for my R32, currently re-shelling my GTST and the "B" type one doesnt fit, the holes need to be going the opposite direction!

0431 192 220

Cheers

Damon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473145-wtb-r32-c-gearbox-crossmember/
Share on other sites

Do you have more info about exactly what you need? Are we talking gearbox cross member? What is a B or C type and which bolt holes are the issue?

9 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Do you have more info about exactly what you need? Are we talking gearbox cross member? What is a B or C type and which bolt holes are the issue?

Hi Duncan,

Basically the old shell was an auto RB20DET R32 GTST, it had a manual conversion with an rb20det gearbox

There are 3 different types of gearbox crossmembers all with different hole positions,

from reading up on a few threads it seems that i need a C type one (A B or C are stamped into the crossmember)

The hole positions in the shell's varied between auto and manual apparently,

ive tried turning the crossmember the other way round, but due to the crossmembers not being flat, and more of a dog leg shape, when the crossmember is turned around the holes sort of line up, but the crossmember does not sit flat against the face.

a bit of a poor description i know. i'll try and get photos tonight which will help my explanation.

lol amazingly it does....I'll see what I have. Do you know where the type is stamped? And is the top of the page in your diagram the front or rear of the car?

haha that's good then, the top of the diagram is if you are looking at the input end of the gearbox from the front of the car.

Edited by DaymoR32

The bracket will have a letter stamped on one of the feet, there are no other numbers/letters on the bracket and it will be quite a large stamp.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few more recent pics
    • full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...