Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 3/25/2018 at 10:44 PM, rat32r said:

Just want to and you can get ls1 alternator from 140A -220A is the most I have seen. Ls2,ls3 all fit my kit but will require a different plug for charge light.

Do you know of any conversion looms to use LS2/3 alternators with the RB factory connector?

Do you know of any conversion looms to use LS2/3 alternators with the RB factory connector?

Ls2 and ls3 alternators are pwm controlled.
So unless you have a aftermarket ecu that you can program to control alternator output the stick with ls1 as it is plug and play
  • Like 1
On 2/20/2019 at 6:02 PM, rat32r said:


Ls2 and ls3 alternators are pwm controlled.
So unless you have a aftermarket ecu that you can program to control alternator output the stick with ls1 as it is plug and play

How does the voltage hold with the larger alternators? Is there a negative difference with the alternator size upgrade, that would require the "big 3" wiring setup? I doubt 140A would have an issue, but 200A+ may strain the stock wiring.

  • 4 weeks later...

Does anyone have a specification sheet for these alternators?  Primarily what is the maximum rpm it can run to(eg 9000 engine RPM)? What current does it make at what rpm?(eg 50 amps at idle? 100 amps at 2000 engine rpm?)

Thanks Matt

So im having an argument with a mate. I have just recently purchased a 140amp alternator kit from cwc. And he reckons ill need my car touch up tuned as it runs more voltage what are your guys thoughts on this should i tell my friend he needs to pay off the tea spoon or is he right?? 

Does anyone have a specification sheet for these alternators?  Primarily what is the maximum rpm it can run to(eg 9000 engine RPM)? What current does it make at what rpm?(eg 50 amps at idle? 100 amps at 2000 engine rpm?)
Thanks Matt

Hi Matt,
I have made the pulley ratio for my kits to be about to handle 10-11k rpm
As that would equate to 6-7k rpm on the ls1 motor.ls motor runs a larger diameter harmonic balancer and a smaller alternator pulley.
With the RB the balancer is smaller and the pulley is larger.
Also I have had cars running at idle with 3 Walbro 460s all on at idle with aircon on max,headlights lights on and maintains 14.2volts.
Below is a data sheet from a generic ls1 alternator a customer sent me.IMG_5940.jpg
So im having an argument with a mate. I have just recently purchased a 140amp alternator kit from cwc. And he reckons ill need my car touch up tuned as it runs more voltage what are your guys thoughts on this should i tell my friend he needs to pay off the tea spoon or is he right?? 

Hi, depending on how bad your voltage was before the alternator swap It can effect to tune.
Ie. I had a car running down to 13.2v on full load swapping to ls alternator I had 14.2 at full load. With extra voltage across the whole map.
It made the car run slightly richer than previous as noticed on the wide and when driving but didn’t do proper before alternator Dyno and after alternator swap dyno to get exact figures.
21 minutes ago, rat32r said:


Hi, depending on how bad your voltage was before the alternator swap It can effect to tune.
Ie. I had a car running down to 13.2v on full load swapping to ls alternator I had 14.2 at full load. With extra voltage across the whole map.
It made the car run slightly richer than previous as noticed on the wide and when driving but didn’t do proper before alternator Dyno and after alternator swap dyno to get exact figures.

Ok so he isnt wrong. I can tell you i drove the car today for around 3 hours as i went away with the family. And with the a/c blasting and thermos kicking in and out voltage was reading between 13.2v and 12.6v. So what your saying is worst case the car runs richer until i can get it touched up note these readings are my standard alternator not the new one coming from you

Edited by mrrb20det

It depends how accurate the injector voltage offset data has been set up. The point of the offset is to account for this exact thing, so if things are all set correctly no need to retune.

 

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Received & fitted my kit from Andrew yesterday.  

Andrew was very easy to deal with and sent the alternator off asap. 

Overall very happy with the kit. It was packaged very well for postage.

Quality looks great and everything was there for a quick install. 

Have around 14.2v @idle when warm. 

I would highly recommend the kit to anyone considering it. 

 

Cheers mate  @rat32r

20190709_115123.jpg

20190709_115248.jpg

20190709_115256.jpg

20190709_121815.jpg

20190709_121821.jpg

  • Like 1

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay?  Any discount for us SAUers? haha.

Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches?

https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

10 minutes ago, jrm said:

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay?  Any discount for us SAUers? haha.

Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches?

https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

Yep same as the ebay kit. 

 

Have a look back through this thread, pretty sure a few people have had a wait on the ard alternators and not readily available and cheap like ls1 alternators. Pick up 2nd hand ls1 alt for $50-$100.  

As you said the advantage is being able to remove the pulley & adapter to use it on another ls1 alt if need be but if you buy a new one in the kit the likely hood of needing to replace should be pretty low. 

 

I'd send Andrew a message and get a price. His number is on the thread a few pages back.

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay?  Any discount for us SAUers? haha.

Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches?
https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html
The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

I take of care of sau members just email me [email protected]
Or message 0417677905
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...