Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

I like setting easy goals because then it makes you feel good when you complete them. For my brief time back in NZ I decided I needed to get the car running with the triple carbs as when I left for Aus I had just got it running but it wouldn't idle and was generally not going well. 

Since buying the TA22 in Aus which also has Mikunis on it I've learnt quite a bit about tuning them and setting them up which I've been able to transfer to the Skyline. So when I had a bit of spare time I started by checking the pilot jet settings which were waaaay off. No wonder it didn't run well. Fixed those up, cranked it over for a while to get the gas to go through (mechanical fuel pump) and with some dodgy choke opening and throttle fiddling the car started. 

Took it for a burn up an down the road and considering I spent only a couple of minutes with synchrometer it works really well. Idle is a little high at around 12-1400 at the moment but it sounds good when the carbs are on song !

One thing I haven't checked is the timing so I've purchased a timing light to do that sometime in near future. 

Aaanyway novel over, here's some photos of stuff. 


hepvgqyl.c5s.jpg
alymcjf2.lcg.jpg
dyfcsafa.3e2.jpg
Another one of the tasks I wanted to do is install a choke cable (or starter wire) for the triples. The one that was for the OEM single wasn't long enough and as I found out it anyway the previous owner just used one which was for a twin carb setup and cut one of the wires off! Mine is kind of janky and sort of works but it's not really that good. Maybe not required now that I've sorted out the basic jetting but it's something. Mainly has issues on the right side where it goes into that first holder. Needs a better mount somehow.

pczvtyhd.zuy.jpg
So being that I just took the car out for it's maiden voyage on the triples there was of course teething issues. One of them involves this pipe here. The brakes worked pretty much as well as they did before (to my knowledge) however the brake pedal was pulsating kind of with the motor. I'm informed this hose should have a one way valve in it so have now purchased one and should be here next week.

wtcdr5cw.3vu.jpg
And a parting shot for your time. Also a quick walkaround if you're on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/p/BkqjBL3gbW7

  • Like 1

Well I had to take my big brakes setup off my Crown (6 pot 380/4 pot 356) so I thought I'd upgrade the Hako ones.. 

o1xwpdi1.g2l.jpg
After a little bit of custom modification to the dust shield or whatever it is this happened....

falzbmd5.4su.jpg
That's an 80s Hilux (reproduction) 4 pot caliper. These fit on without any modications whatsoever, exact same bolt holes and fit around the disc fine. There's also one advantage of having the brake disc mount behind the hub.. miles of clearance! 

Thinking I'll probably need to get custom lines made up to match the new to the old but otherwise, success. So a decent up grade from almost 50 year old twin pots to 4 pots. 

Also I plan to just remove that heat shield thing from the hub anyway or cut it off properly when I finalise the install on these so it won't be all super cutty.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi again all, I’ve tried doing some searching on the topic but couldn’t find the answer I’m looking for.   I deleted my clutch booster because it had an air leak and was squealing like a hog, and now my clutch has very poor pedal feel and the friction zone is way too small, so I believe I need a bigger diameter clutch master cylinder to compensate for not using the booster. I found a Wilwood option that’s 3/4” for a good price and will fit my 3AN clutch line, but all the firewall adapters I see online such as RB factory or Chase Bays are listed as RWD only (GTST/GTS). Link below. https://rbfactory.shop/products/nissan-to-wilwood-girling-clutch-master-cylinder-adapter My question is if these adapters will also fit a GTR, and if anyone has experience using a 3/4” CMC without the booster, my clutch is a Nismo coppermix twin plate.   Thanks, always appreciate the advice!
    • Catching up on a post, I've replaced the external shark fin with a small 4g antenna (no further drilling, just a 1mm embiggening of the existing hole, and run that to where the dual battery models have the battery in the left rear guard.  No idea what the factory antenna did, but removing it had no impact on anything I use, according to the US manual the GPS antenna is in the dash and it still works fine Also ended up stealing battery power from one of the amps and ACC power from a unit nearby to add an ACC relay to power it. The mounted the booster, wifi, power socket and antenna splitter in the rear left guard out of the way, all out of site with the boot trims in
    • What drama? The only drama you're going to have is the near constant work to maintain all those sphericals. I only have sphericals in my front caster rods and front upper CAs (because both of these are near compulsory in an R32). I have had the front arms out of my car 34 times already this month, and if the new replacements arrive today, I will have them out and apart again tomorrow. Chasing clicking and clunking that comes from sphericals being a.....poor choice for a road car. Moisture and dirt are not their friends. I have been contemplating a change to my rear subframe that would require me to use sphericals in my lower CAs. And.....I don't want to have them that close to the road.
    • Did you need anything else you've already done? If you had it before... and liked the changes after, then supposedly it'd be more of the same. The idea about most suspension arms is to tune geometry that the OEM arms max out at/can't handle because they weren't designed to have the car setup in such a way that 'looks good'.
    • I have replaced everything on my r34 including suspension to Miester R, all rear subframe bushes to poly, all arms to metal adjustable and same in front.   only thing I haven't touched is the front lower control arm. Should I? what improvement can i expect ? I mean the one on the link below?   Car drives perfectly, it is just me thinking everything is either puly bush or hard bearing type so should also do lower control arm front but do I really need it ? https://www.japspeed.co.uk/product/suspension/adjustable-arms/nissan-200sx-s13-s14-s15-skyline-r32-r33-r34-adjustable-suspension-front-lower-control-arms/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo5u6BhDJARIsAAVoDWs5V_PauQPf0kx3zFCaA4tOC9Q7JSIsfJWma_jAPN2f1sJA686djOwaAidgEALw_wcB
×
×
  • Create New...