Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Having few issues with boost on my S14.

Standard ECU, FMIC, 3" exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, that's about it.

I made an Autospeed manual boost controller (Set up DIY #2... http://www.autospeed...Part-One&A=2836 ) setup for my S14 years ago and it worked fine when l had the boost set around 16psi.

But having moved to a warmer climate (QLD)
, I turned the boost down to around 13psi. Problem is now below 4500rpm, it only has 8-9psi, and then creeps up to 13 psi.

Is buying an Electronic Boost Controller going to fix this issue?

Set the car up with short pipes to the Intercooler, kept stock T28 etc for quick boost, but now not really getting boost.


I've spent copious hours researching different EBC, but can't see if it will fix it. Seems the type of solenoid or how the EBC is mounted effects the performance.......

Looking at eBoost2 or eBoost street... but want to ake sure it will do the trick.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: boost controller.JPG

I made (years ago) and used (for many years) the same boost controller.  I liked it, but ultimately found in the end that like all non-EBC boost controllers it wasn't completely consistent.  So I replaced it with a Profec.  The Profec is much more consistent, as you might expect.

In your case, I would ponder whether you should not just be adjusting the relief valve in your controller a little to increase the ramp rate.  You might have maladjusted it a little when lowering the main boost reg, or maybe the way the relief valve works depends on the setting of the reg.  I know when I was setting mine up (a few times) I set the boost reg first, then brought the relief valve up until it was coming on boost as hard as I wanted, then had to adjust the reg again to get the right target boost (because the relief valve affected the target a little too) and then once more back to the relief valve to get the ramp right.

With your turbo and your desired boost levels, it won't matter what EBC you employ, nor the solenoid valve type or where it's located.  Anything should work.

Or check the exhaust gasket from manifold to head also the turbo to manifold gasket.

Have seen them blow out on SR20DETs many times causing turbos to be come extremely lazy.

Partially how the turbo is mounted is the cause followed by most aftermarket dump/down pipes are unsupported 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...