Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ther! First off, i wil apolegise for my english wiritng skills so if you have problems with ppl that can't spell for shit, stop reading now!

Ok so now to my problems, I own a Stagea c34 RS4 1997 mod rb25det Automatik (not sure if car is s1 or s2 but know the engien is s2)
Im trying to figure out what shoks and springs i can use on my  car, i know ther is a post for this but it was not spesefied if it was a 2wd or 4wd or if it was auto or not. I have goten som "info" wher it have been "i think its this" but dosent realy cut it for me.
What im looking for is 40mm 40mm lowering springs and dampers (not coilovers) And brakes that fits the car, not upgraded brakes but original, need to know witch car i can get parts from (Stagea dos not exisit in  any database wher i live) 

Sorry if i have written this a bit backwords or realy comfusing! 
Hope somone is abel to help! 

25435268_10155058628055887_94124437_o.jpg

If you are in Europe the short answer is Bilsteins. The long answer is:

As for brakes you may be able to find some part numbers in here:'

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61606-stagea-parts-list/

  • Like 1

i am in Eaurop yes, i was reading in that post but foudn nothing about what it was, what i have understood is that ther is a diffrens is rwd and 4wd, so i coud not/did not want to order somthing that coud be wrong

Wil try and se :P

Thanks! Do you happen to know if i can use r33 gtr or gtst brakes on the car? Front and rear?

Figured out i can use r33 gtr shoks and sprinfs in front and r33 gtst in the rear, but its hard to finde lowering kits for r33 that is not coilovers :/

Even tryed my luck at googel translate and googeling :D

I had a series 1 like yours. I had GTR suspension in the front and R34 GTT in the rear (I think!) It's worth reading the Stagea Suspension topic by Sydney Kid to confirm. 

As for brakes, I think any R32, R33, R34 brakes will fit. I had R34 Gtt brakes on mine. Again, others will need to confirm about the GTR brakes though.

Thanks! 

Did read alot of it, and that is wher i found out the thing about the suspension, but gonna read mor of it, original post shoud have been uptated so ppl like me can get away with just reading the first page ?

Almost all the brakes will cross match.  The caveat is that R34s have 14mm bolts (for the most part) where everything prior was 12mm.

Any 2WD Stagea is basically the same gear front and rear as the common-era Skyline.  Any 4WD Stagea is basically the same gear as the matching GTR.  As most things stayed the same between GTRs 32-34, there's a lot that cross match.

All that is important is what type of lower rear shock mount they have and the brake bolt size, for the most part.

When you say brakes you mean pads and rotors which are not interchangeable. Have a look in the thread for some part numbers. If you could find a complete set of GTR or GTT brakes it would make life a little easier (and improve your stopping power).

As for lowering springs you can use Teins (if you can get them):

Front: Tein F-SIN78-010311-HCC

Rear Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC

which is what I used on my S1 (the later S1 had the neo engine).

The shocks I used were Nismo labelled Bilsteins but I don't know if these numbers will mean much today:

Front: Nismo  6110-RSC45ENP

Rear: Nismo  53210-RSC45ENP

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

When you say brakes you mean pads and rotors which are not interchangeable. Have a look in the thread for some part numbers. If you could find a complete set of GTR or GTT brakes it would make life a little easier (and improve your stopping power).

As for lowering springs you can use Teins (if you can get them):

Front: Tein F-SIN78-010311-HCC

Rear Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC

which is what I used on my S1 (the later S1 had the neo engine).

The shocks I used were Nismo labelled Bilsteins but I don't know if these numbers will mean much today:

Front: Nismo  6110-RSC45ENP

Rear: Nismo  53210-RSC45ENP

Sorry front shocks are missing a digit...should be 56110-RSC45ENP

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...