Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just got the engine in a cefiro running. It's an r34 rb26 head on rb30 bottom end. I'm using the wiring/ ECU from the rb20 that was originally in car. All wiring is converted to suit the 26 intake manifold / r34 cas.

It starts and idles with afm disconnected. Runs pretty good. As soon as afm is plugged in it dies. Fires up on the key for about a second then cuts out. 

Could there be anything I've overlooked to cause this. 

It has adjustable fuel reg to compensate for bigger engine. Once it's running I'll fit a haltech and turbo , injectors etc but just need it going for now for rego inspection.

I'm assuming you're running the RB26 injectors on a RB20 ECU? Are you running the resistor pack?

Also to ghetto it, as the ECU assumes there are RB20 injectors in the car, lower your base fuel pressure to like 2 bar or so. See if that starts 

I'm pretty sure it's not injector related. 

The afm plugs have a fair bit of green corrosion on them ( male and female) 

How can I test these?

Also when fuel pump primes, as soon as it cuts off the pressure quickly returns to zero. Should the fuel pressure stay in the rail? Hoses are connected correctly.

pressure drop is normal if there isn't a check valve in place.

So let me get this right.

You have:

  • RB20DET ECU
  • RB20DET sensors & loom
  • RB20DET AFM
  • RB26DETT Injectors
  • No resistor pack installed on the +VE side of the power going to the injectors

do you have a wideband? see what the AFRs are like when it' idling with the AFM disconnected. Generally it should sit close to low 11s, high 10s as it's in limp mode.

If it's leaner than that, squeeze in more fuel pressure and then try to start it with the AFM plugged in

I do but not easily accessible. Should I just fit 26 injectors and resistor pack? 

I had a similar problem years ago with a 25 neo in vl. Had to wire in a jumper wire to maf neg or pos. This maf worked 6vmonths ago but now it's pretty corroded.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...