Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone! This isn't really a tutorial as such but hopefully this will help out other fellow skyline owners with this very annoying and sometimes misdiagnosed issue. After replacing all the seals in the power steering pump, replacing the fluid, all power steering hoses and tie rods/rod ends i was at my wits end. My issue had been going on intermittently for around 2 years but suddenly started to happen more often. In car parks and low speeds it seriously felt like driving a fu#@ing tank! There were a couple of threads which lightly touched base on this and recommended getting into the hicas diagnostics, which sounds like a painful process and really wouldnt be able to tell you a fault within the hicas ecu itself. Even with my hicas electronically locked, the ecu still controls the power steering. Most of you probably already know, but the hicas ecu is located in the boot just above the fuel tank. After pulling it apart on the weekend i could see straight away that 2 of the capacitors had leaked onto the board therefore giving my ps mixed signal(in the first pic its the 2 capacitors on the right with the brown corrosive gunk underneath them). i've attached some pics so others know exactly what to look out for [emoji5]20180211_101653.jpg20180211_101641.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473308-r33-gtst-heavy-power-steering-fix/
Share on other sites

I Should of been more specific lol yes the capacitors need to be replaced which is like a $1 part and not a big job at all. Best to take it to someone who specialises in these sort of repairs unless your super confident with a soldering iron. With the board being made of fibreglass it can generally withstand a bit of corrosion and be cleaned up without damaging it. For anyone in brisbane, i took mine to pcb repairs at jindalee. Cant recommend them enough [emoji106]

 

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...