Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

Due to recently accidentally buggering two of my Spitfire coil packs and finding it difficult to find 2 to replace them.

I'm wondering if there is any gain to be had by converting to the Ls coil packs or the Yaris coil packs.

 

If so can I please have the correct part numbers for the best Yaris or LS coil pack.

 

Also any information needed on fittings them as well please

 

Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473468-rb-30-25-coil-pack-choices/
Share on other sites

Yaris (or just about any similar pencil coil) hands down choice over the truck coils as the truck coils are finicky about dwell.

Yaris, or Celica or Corolla (which is pretty much the 1NZ and 1ZZ coils) are all much of a muchness I think.  There is one particular choice out of them which is the better one.  A lot of them have the wiring loom plug angled upwards.  These are not as good a choice as the ones with the loom plug horizontal, because of not being able to make them fit under a coil cover.

I think the part number of choice is 90919-02240 .  See http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide

The similar Audi coils and R35 coils are all equally good.  Whatever the choice, you end up needing plugs and some mounting plates.  And probably have to sort out rubber boots/springs.

Edited by GTSBoy

Coil pack upgrades (as in, an upgrade beyond the usual drop in splitfires) are pointless unless you're running a serious setup with which the standard coil type can't keep up. You don't so much net gains with better coils, you just retrieve lost power through poor quality or worn ignition components. Simply put, unless you're running a drag or drift car with 1000hp, or your coils are worn, stick with what you have. Buy the new set and onsell your four to someone else?

I have found a cheap and easy way to mount yaris coils into the rb25det neo and also the s1 & s2 motors.

You can just buy some thread bar the same size as the 8mm bolt on the s1 and 2 and the same size as the 10mm bolts that hold the NEO ones in place and cut it to size and use a bolt as a stopper to where it likes to sit and use another bolt on top to fasten it,  worked great on my neo,  when i changed to a s2 head all i did was turn down the bottom of the stud to a m5 1.0 and adapted it to the coil brackets.

if you are worried about looks then fork out the cash for the kits getting around

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Jordy32 said:

Kudos sell them 1 by 1 if you just need 2, shouldn't be a difficult problem to fix.

Yer but 99 each i might aswell buy a full new set.

Was hoping to find someone who has changed to yaris or ls and off loading them

 

unless you buy the yaris coils from toyota or a known oem supplier dont bother we get heap through the shop and they fail constantly, many other big name shops are also seeing the same failures. Read the replies...

 

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, it goes without saying that you want genuine Delco.  Otherwise it's no different to putting yellowjackets on.

DENSO...

Problem is they all are exact copies including the toyota part numbers and DENSO markings..so there is no way to tell.... tested spark energy is not much better than spltfires anyway...

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Sorry, you're right, was thinking Denso and having had the same argument elsewhere over the truck coils the other day, have OEM name confusion to add to my other problems.

There is a way to buy proper Denso product.  Go to a proper vendor, not eBay et al.

yeah problem is even the most popular vendors are selling copies.... you will see that in the post i linked earlier. ive tried 3 reputable vendors and all are selling copies dressed as genuine. 

6 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

For f**ks sake, I've just put Yaris coils on mine that I purchased from Goleby's. The didn't come in OEM Toyota boxes so now I suspect that they'll be fakes.

What dwell times are you using Trent?

I'm pretty sure i've seen somewhere on FB that golebys confirms they are not genuine coils in their kits. 

On 3/12/2018 at 1:15 PM, Komdotkom said:

For f**ks sake, I've just put Yaris coils on mine that I purchased from Goleby's. The didn't come in OEM Toyota boxes so now I suspect that they'll be fakes.

What dwell times are you using Trent?

these are where alot of the replicas ive seen (and other reputable shops) are from.

If you check out the link below you will see some big name shops having the same dramas. Click on the comments icon and it will open the conversation.

click here

Run conservative dwell on the golebys ones to be safe.

Battery Voltage (V)

 

Dwell Time (msec)

 

8

 

5.60

 

10

 

3.40

 

12

 

2.48

 

14

 

2.00

 

16

 

1.65

 

18

 

1.42

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My purchase experience was no where near as glorious as yours but still a significant moment in my life! Yeah that's a bit of a dilemma as to whether you bring it back or not!  Obviously a massive waste of time and effort to bring it back if you're only going to move there anyway!
    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
×
×
  • Create New...