Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone ,

 

im looking to purchase a r32 gtr but it seems to have a bent chassis rail , is it worth fixing with confidence it can handle power up to 450hp? Or will it be fragile and more likely to break or bend again ? 

 

Thankyou 

3634A4F3-31DA-4C08-AD3F-D422AA3DFE51.png

I was looking at an R32 non GT-R once that had crushed rails. I took a bunch of photos and walked into a workshop, they basically laughed me out. A proper repair will be costly - given that it's a GT-R it may be worth it, or may not be. It will never pass roady unless repaired correctly. I'm not liking all that rust around the lift point either.

If I saw that on a car I'd be wondering what happened, why it hasn't been repaired, and what else is wrong. Do a paint thickness check all around at a minimum to see if it's been partially resprayed and/or bogged up, and maybe check alignment if you can for an indication of whether the chassis is true or not.

35 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

I was looking at an R32 non GT-R once that had crushed rails. I took a bunch of photos and walked into a workshop, they basically laughed me out. A proper repair will be costly - given that it's a GT-R it may be worth it, or may not be. It will never pass roady unless repaired correctly. I'm not liking all that rust around the lift point either.

If I saw that on a car I'd be wondering what happened, why it hasn't been repaired, and what else is wrong. Do a paint thickness check all around at a minimum to see if it's been partially resprayed and/or bogged up, and maybe check alignment if you can for an indication of whether the chassis is true or not.

Thanks a ton for this response , the car has had a respray and the owner has had the car with this problem since day dot he says , I have been quoted $1500 to repair it , how would I go about the allinment and getting an accurate reading ? 

  • Like 1

The rail's not bent.  It's just f**ked.  Classic moron jacking it up wrong and/or bashing it into speedbumps.  It is major league defectable.  It is very fixable, but at a cost of course.  On my R32 we made a tool that we could insert through the holes in the rail to push out the (much smaller) damage done over the years before I had to take it through Regency for approvals because we know they are (unts about that sort of thing.  If they saw that photo, they would hand you a defect notice to stick on your head!

Edited by GTSBoy
15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The rail's not bent.  It's just f**ked.  Classic moron jacking it up wrong and/or bashing it into speedbumps.  It is major league defectable.  It is very fixable, but at a cost of course.  On my R32 we made a tool that we could insert through the holes in the rail to push out the (much smaller) damage done over the years before I had to take it through Regency for approvals because we know they are (unts about that sort of thing.  If they saw that photo, they would hand you a defect notice to stick on your head!

Once fixed should I be worry that the chassis not being able to handle power mods ? Or is this just a stay away from the car and that鈥檚 that ?

You could fix that rail so it is 3x stronger than original.  I make no representation as to what state the rest of the car will be in if the rails look like that though.  That is a sure sign of "give no f**k".

  • Like 2

^ What he said.

Given that 32 R's are getting pretty old and increasingly rare, if it looks like you're getting too good a deal, you probably are.
Good examples are hard to find, you just gotta do the work and have the $$ ready.

At the current prices I would have a mile long checklist and inspect the car several times in good daylight plus have a workshop go over it in detail. The alternative is to buy the 20k 'immaculate' one and spend another 20k+ fixing it - an option for sure, but tedious.

^ What he said.
Given that 32 R's are getting pretty old and increasingly rare, if it looks like you're getting too good a deal, you probably are.
Good examples are hard to find, you just gotta do the work and have the $$ ready.
At the current prices I would have a mile long checklist and inspect the car several times in good daylight plus have a workshop go over it in detail. The alternative is to buy the 20k 'immaculate' one and spend another 20k+ fixing it - an option for sure, but tedious.

Yeah I understand I鈥檒l probably stay away from it for the meantime and check out clean ones for the extra dollar [emoji1362] cheers
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
  • Create New...