Ben C34 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 5 minutes ago, KerrodR33 said: R.i.p.s or spool 3.2L? Both Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7869933 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackgtr Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 7 minutes ago, KerrodR33 said: R.i.p.s or spool 3.2L? Going the 30 bottom end route for cost and strength to avoid having to buy an N1 block. Aiming for 750awhp Ive been a big fan if RIPS rb30. Its tried and proven he has also been doing them for decades. Should email him and ask for a custom quote to your specifics. 1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7869935 Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiRS4T Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 The only argument I can see for buying a built motor is time. it usually takes twice as long as you think and then a bit more to build your own (sometimes years!) but if you are not in a hurry then probably go with your own build. 1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7869948 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kinkstaah Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly. I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7869991 Share on other sites More sharing options...
blah_blah Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 On 12/03/2018 at 7:39 AM, Leroy Peterson said: Soon N1 blocks will be comparable price to billet blocks Yet a probably the weakest out of the bunch. I think the big power cars starting to use modified rb25 blocks to suit rb 26 Another Platinum 4WD RB25 converted to RB26 block hitting the streets... many more in the pipleline. Why? Because better than a N1 Platinum Racing Products After vigorous testing we have finally established that the N1 block is a poor casting yes.. We have come up with a far better solution And sorry to tell you, but the N1 is a complete waste of money, they crack as fast as if not faster than a 05U 1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7869996 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dose Pipe Sutututu Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Just use a 4WD RB25DET NEO in a GT-R. That would cause some controversy haha.. No need for VCAM just use the factory VCT, then build that motor. 1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7869997 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakey pete Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said: Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly. I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need. Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there As far as N1 blocks go, from what i've seen from someone cutting up a stuffed RB26 block and then comparing the UT thickness tests from a N1 block, it is thicker in certain areas, and not in others. Depending on what you actually have fail will it could be an upgrade or no better. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870001 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackgtr Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 When bmw wanted a block for their f1 engines, they used a moderate km used block from their road cars. The though was that the engine would have shown any stress by then. A non n1 block would be my choice with a build; either rb26 or rb30. They are tried and proven for decent power without grout filling. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870010 Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiRS4T Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 7 hours ago, sneakey pete said: Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there No problem for Kiwi ingenuity - I have seen a couple of RB30 powered R32s here and I am sure there are more around... Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870034 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakey pete Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 oh you can make them fit, but i've not seen it done without running a cut out vented bonnet (defect) and spacing the subframe 10mm and messing up handling etc Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870059 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r32-25t Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I have seen it done under a stock bonnet and no subframe spacers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870060 Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatz Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 35k lay at off the crack pipe 2 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870072 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakey pete Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 11 hours ago, r32-25t said: I have seen it done under a stock bonnet and no subframe spacers Well that's pretty decent then. Retract my earlier statement Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r32-25t Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 You do need to cut some of the bracing for the bonnet to make it close but once it’s closed it looks stock 1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7870112 Share on other sites More sharing options...
duz10s Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 On 13/03/2018 at 8:40 PM, r32-25t said: I have seen it done under a stock bonnet and no subframe spacers have you got photos to proof this? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7871091 Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMLP Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 It has been done by Motor Sports Mechanical in their 8sec GTR by using custom rocker covers that are 20 mm lower so it clears the bonnet with no cutting or spacing Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473520-better-to-buy-a-motor-already-built/page/2/#findComment-7880848 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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