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Better to buy a motor already built?

KerrodR33

By KerrodR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Blackgtr Explorer

Blackgtr

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, KerrodR33 said:

R.i.p.s or spool 3.2L?

 

Going the 30 bottom end route for cost and strength to avoid having to buy an N1 block. Aiming for 750awhp

Ive been a big fan if RIPS rb30. Its tried and proven  he has also been doing them for decades. 

Should email him and ask for a custom quote to your specifics. 

  • Like 1
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

The only argument I can see for buying a built motor is time.  it usually takes twice as long as you think and then a bit more to build your own (sometimes years!) but if you are not in a hurry then probably go with your own build.

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Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly.


I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.

blah_blah Grand Master

blah_blah

Posted
Posted
On 12/03/2018 at 7:39 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

Soon N1 blocks will be comparable price to billet blocks

Yet a probably the weakest out of the bunch. I think the big power cars starting to use modified rb25 blocks to suit rb 26

 

Another Platinum 4WD RB25 converted to RB26 block hitting the streets... many more in the pipleline. Why? Because better than a N1

Platinum Racing Products After vigorous testing we have finally established that the N1 block is a poor casting yes.. We have come up with a far better solution 1f642.png:)

And sorry to tell you, but the N1 is a complete waste of money, they crack as fast as if not faster than a 05U

 

 

 

  • Like 1
sneakey pete Grand Master

sneakey pete

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly.


I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.

Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there :P

As far as N1 blocks go, from what i've seen from someone cutting up a stuffed RB26 block and then comparing the UT thickness tests from a N1 block, it is thicker in certain areas, and not in others. Depending on what you actually have fail will it could be an upgrade or no better.

Blackgtr Explorer

Blackgtr

Posted
Posted

When bmw wanted a block for their f1 engines, they used a moderate km used block from their road cars. The though was that the engine would have shown any stress by then.

A non n1 block would be my choice with a build; either rb26 or rb30. They are tried and proven for decent power without grout filling. 

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there :P

No problem for Kiwi ingenuity - I have seen a couple of RB30 powered R32s here and I am sure there are more around...

 

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